how do i fix this problem, previous owner welded off something...
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how do i fix this problem, previous owner...Expand / Collapse
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Posted Monday, June 30, 2008 9:11 AM
Supreme Being

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Ditto on the two front manifold bolts - thats a couple of holes that need fixed for sure.... 

I blew the last photo up to have a close look at the two hose attachments to the valve covers....and it looks to me like that is the location of the PCV valve - one in each side. 

                               Steve Metzger               Tucson, Arizona

Post #14015
Posted Monday, June 30, 2008 5:46 PM
Supreme Being

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me and my dad decided to keep the system the guy had on there before me, if it worked good with him. we're just gonna modify it so that it isnt a big vaccum leak or something.


..... this is off the topic but i dont wanna post a brand new one.....

but anyway

i just ordered the y-block alternator bracket/ compressor thing out of vintage air. i dont have a compressor, im using it strictly for the alternator. the guy on the phone said its meant for the one wire gm alternator. so the one i bought a while back wont be good then? its a ford alternator. and is anyone else running that bracket, if so does it work good for their alternator? 113 bucks is a lot to spend but im desperate i just wanna know if this is gonna work

also what kinda alternator do i now need to buy :-/


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Post #14022
Posted Monday, June 30, 2008 10:25 PM
Supreme Being

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It depends on the mounting ears on the alternator. Then one you have may work. Set it up on the engine out of the car so you can adjust spacing and make sure the belt runs straight around the two pulleys. You don't want them to run at an angle or the belt will jump off. I set mine up with the same adapter. Used a 3/8 threaded rod for a long bolt then put spacers on it until it was right. I've had a regular Ford alternator and a 1 wire on it. Both just took a little lining up. Chuck in NH

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 MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch 28 Chrysler Roadster (mystery motor)
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Post #14029
Posted Tuesday, July 01, 2008 8:18 AM
Supreme Being

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what? 113 dollars? i made mine with home depot hardware for about 10 dollars, and its been 2 years and still going. for my GM 1 wire alternator, which only cost me 40 bucks remaned.

Post #14036
Posted Tuesday, July 01, 2008 1:44 PM
Supreme Being

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HoLun

  one of his problems is the car came with a 6 cyl and the Y Block he got didn't come with a generator bracket so he didnt have anything to put the threaded rod and band iron to.

 TM



 TOM in  Bethel ,Vermont

aka: Bluedot Kid


School of Hard Knocks C l a s s of 1960

Post #14049
Posted Thursday, July 03, 2008 5:58 AM
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AZ28 (6/30/2008)
I blew the last photo up to have a close look at the two hose attachments to the valve covers....and it looks to me like that is the location of the PCV valve - one in each side. 

Steve.  Good catch on the possibility that there are multiple PCV valves on this system.  Based on your observation, then logic follows that there is likely another PCV valve located at the welded up road draft tube.  If multiple PCV valves are indeed the case, then the system needs to be replumbed so that there is only one valve as multiple valves will introduce more than the necessary amount of air back to the carburetor and make for a lean condition.

 

The easiest solution in the short term is to disconnect the current conglomeration from the carburetor and run the engine without the hoses being hooked up.  Long term, remove the welded up road draft tube and block the hole in the crankcase and simply replumb a single PCV back to the engine.  Although the valley pan cover is where the air is normally pulled for the PCV valve, using one of the existing holes in the valve covers would also suffice.

 

Johnny.  Start a new thread or post if changing subjects as this will help others down the road when doing a search for a particular subject as they will not have to weed through a post with varying topics to find the information they need.

Lorena, Texas  (South of Waco)

Post #14095
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