Petronics Ignition
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Posted Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:14 PM


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Hi Guys,  Installed a petronics ignitor in my 54 according to the instructions that came with it & the engine started up but ran terrible. I got a 6 volt one, but I have changed the car to 12 volts with a Ballast resistor before the coil.. Checked the voltage on the + side after the resistor of the coil when it was running & got 7 to 8 volts.  On the - side I only showed 3 to 4 volts??? Why the voltage drop?  I checked the braided ground wire in the distributer & it is hooked up.  I changed coils & got the same.  Like to get it right so I don't burn up the expensive module.

  Any help would help would be appreciated for this weekend Mechanic.      Thanks, Mike

Post #6983
Posted Tuesday, September 04, 2007 9:14 PM
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Here is the Ford coil circuit for easy reading:

The Pertronics instructions say to take power immediately in front of the ballast resistor (red wire) and to connect the black wire to the (-) post of the coil. This gives full votage to the control module - before the resistor. If it is a 12 volt module it needs to be getting 12 volts - if it is a 6 volt module it needs to be getting 6 volts.

The ballast resistance should drop the incoming line voltage - and the coil should also drop the voltage. I think that's what you found? Are you trying to operate the 6 volt module on the voltage you get after 12 volts goes through the ballast resistance?

                               Steve Metzger               Tucson, Arizona

Post #6989
Posted Wednesday, September 05, 2007 6:44 AM


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Thanks for the schematic Steve, It is very clear and that is what I got, but your right Petronics says to hook up the red wire before the ballast resistor, And yes I am trying to operate the 6 volt module after the resistor as that is where I put the red wire..

I bought the 6 volt one to fit in my Distributer. More dumb questions, Is my coil supposed to be 6 or 12 volt as neither one is marked?  What is a ballast resistor? I have the ceramic one mounted right next to the coil for the 12v conversion.  With the ignition key on I get 12 volts acrossed it but once the engine starts it goes to around 7 volts.  How do I check my voltage regulator?        Thanks, Mike

Post #6997
Posted Wednesday, September 05, 2007 8:51 AM
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This is going to be rushed - I'm due to an MSHA retraining class this morning  and they are Nazi's about it. I'm afraid I don't know the guts of the voltage regulator well enough to comment on it - so others will have to help.

You really need to have the right power supply for the Pertronix - otherwise, its not going to provide reliable service. It has a self regulated "power supply" voltage internal to the module. Under or over voltage is not well received.

The old 6v system probably used the same coil as you have in there now(?) and the originals are oil filled for cooling. Heating of this coil when used for 12v could shorten the service life unexpectedly if it is an old part. The ballast resistor cuts the volts back to something that it can live with (virtually forever). There are modern coils that don't need them  - but then they stress the points or firing modules with the extra power they pass. Better science is needed - and some of this science isn't in the Pertronic Ignitor.

Sorry for the incomplete answer - gotta go! maybe some one else can chime in....

                               Steve Metzger               Tucson, Arizona

Post #7002
Posted Wednesday, September 05, 2007 7:58 PM
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Back from school – I have now been retrained as an “experienced miner”. Scary, I've been doing this for 33+ years...........

One thing that may occur with your current arrangement (assuming it still has the starting jumper from the solenoid) is the jumper is going to feed a jolt of voltage to the module during start-up – around the ballast resistance. Yes, the battery voltage sags on starting but I don't have a feel for how low....

I was thinking about this today – is there a way to feed the Pertronix from a separate six volt source as a test? Like an old battery? Maybe you could find out if it has a problem by giving it the right voltage while the power to the coil is running off the 12 volts through the ballast resistor. This should work for a test only – you are just arranging a temporary “power supply” for the module. At least you could prove to yourself the module is still in usable shape.

Are there any other potential sources of trouble – clearance setting of the module from the points cam ring, plug gaps, etc.?

And finally -I got a Pertronix module for my '56 distributor (not on the car but purchased to fit in the Load-o-Matic tach drive distributor). On the box it says "12127-1282   IGNITOR/ 54-56 FORD 8 CYLINDER" - it must be intended to work with the 12 volt system? What part number is on your box? This might be as simple as moving the red power wire to the incoming line 12v side of the ballast resistor. 

                               Steve Metzger               Tucson, Arizona

Post #7010
Posted Wednesday, September 05, 2007 11:33 PM
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Hi Mike;  Put a pertonics unit on my 55 bird, but I converted to 12 volts. Used their Flame thrower coil.  Works great, quicker starts and generally runs better. I would suggest that you give pertonics a call or email them.  They where very easy to work with and very informative.  I am not using a resistor. Hope this helps   God Bless   Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

Post #7012
Posted Wednesday, September 05, 2007 11:43 PM
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Yeah. RTFQ. He said I bought a 6 volt system AFTER he converted to 12 volts. I think that might be the problem. If not I appologize. Pete
Post #7013
Posted Thursday, September 06, 2007 6:47 AM


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Hi Again,    You must work for a big company as I did (39yrs) Steve.  Yea I had lots of retraining too, a lot of it so foolish!   Anyhow, I don't have a seperate 6 volt source, but I did check my voltage regulator & the contacts in it were burnt pretty bad. Probably had something to do with my Points burning up in that car parade.

Anyhow, I now have 6 volts going to the petronics, and that is why I bought the 6 volt unit to answer the last reply. Was this the correct way to go?    

The engine started up again after changing the regulator but still ran the same, like it was 180 out? I took the Dist cap off & checked the magnet sleeve to make sure it was seated. Put it back on & the engine started & ran smoother for just about & minute, then went to the roughness, so I am thing it has something to do with the way that sleeve is installed.  

Anyone had this problem?           Thanks, Mike

        

Post #7016
Posted Thursday, September 06, 2007 9:04 AM