﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Y-BlocksForever Forum / Y-BlocksForever! Forums 2006 / Technical </title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.4</generator><description>Y-BlocksForever Forum</description><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/</link><webMaster>jculver@y-blocksforever.com</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Tue, 13 May 2008 01:37:13 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>Resurection of a Dual Blower T Bird</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12569-3-1.aspx</link><description>Somebody over on the HAMB posted a story about an old dual blower Y block built many years ago.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;You guys should take a peek at this.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Follow the link&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;A href="http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264790"&gt;http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=264790&lt;/A&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Oldmics</description><pubDate>Mon, 12 May 2008 22:41:28 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Oldmics</dc:creator></item><item><title>AOD/E4OD + Y-block</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12462-3-1.aspx</link><description>Howdy, &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Well my E4OD is finally all rebuilt!  &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I haven't purchased the adapter yet and I just wanted to know if anyone else has bolted a Y to an E4OD(small block bell) or an AOD?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;When the rebuilder rebuilt mine he had to replace my 7.3L diesel case with a smallblock V-8/300 I-6 case.  The Bendtsen adapter is the one I'm planning on and they tell me it's for the small block V-8 or 300 I-6&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;I suppose I'll have to use the side engine mounts since there's no easy way to use the original truck mounts.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Anyone have thoughts on this?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;On another note,   Does anyone know where I could find an automatic steering column for a 53-55 truck? (I'll have the one of the very few 55 automatic F-600's!)&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Thanks, &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;Rick&lt;br&gt;</description><pubDate>Thu, 08 May 2008 10:19:25 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>HT32BSX115</dc:creator></item><item><title>312 Crankshaft Question</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12519-3-1.aspx</link><description>Fellas- when having a 312 crank machined to be used in a 292 block, does the rear main seal surface need to be machined as well as the main journals? If so, to what dimension will it need to be turned to? Thank you,- Duck-</description><pubDate>Sun, 11 May 2008 15:38:03 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>The Duck Guy</dc:creator></item><item><title>4.125 bore in YBM</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12511-3-1.aspx</link><description>I see faint lines around the bores, is it sleeved?</description><pubDate>Sun, 11 May 2008 08:11:11 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>gary534</dc:creator></item><item><title>Timing</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12471-3-1.aspx</link><description> First want to thank you guys for the explanations on venturi vac and manifold vac.  VERY VERY helpful. After my MSD cooked I installed my old dist. ( 57). Has pertonix kit.  Need to change advance. To update you I have put in the 2500 stall convertor, sure help, along with adding a couple thousands on the valve adjust. Now idles.  Timed to 14 int. put on vac line jumps to 55 deg.  Have an adjustable vac can. Think I need to bring that down some??  Much more power, but afraid of the 55deg.  Does not ping.  Hope you all can understand what I trying to say, little merrgie.  Need advice on advance springs and whatever you guys think will help..&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks in advance.     God Bless</description><pubDate>Thu, 08 May 2008 20:14:18 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Eddie Paskey</dc:creator></item><item><title>Can an EZC-C head handle 1.92 Intake and 1.64 Exhaust Valves?</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12561-3-1.aspx</link><description>Fellas,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I am doing another Y -- have a good 292 block with what looks to be another set of "C" heads laying around the barn. Any chance a modified "C" head can handle a 1.92 intake and 1.64 exhaust, or is there going to be too much shrouding and just not enough room in the combustion chamber?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Dan</description><pubDate>Mon, 12 May 2008 18:16:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Daniel Jessup</dc:creator></item><item><title>rocker shaft stands</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12308-3-1.aspx</link><description>The 55 ford service manual says the rocker shaft stands on a y-block engine have a top and bottom - that there is a .020 difference in height from one to the other.  My question is, how can you tell which end is top, and which is bottom?  I noticed the ford part number is embossed on one end, but that doesn't seem to be a sure guide to go by.  If anyone can explain this, it sure would be appreciated.</description><pubDate>Fri, 02 May 2008 15:22:13 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tjack</dc:creator></item><item><title>i think i figured out why my 292 wont start... this is very bad guys :(</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12348-3-1.aspx</link><description>so, after never taking off the valve covers since getting the motor back in september, i went over to my grandmas today to try out some of the suggestions by you guys.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;so, i take off both valve covers.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;passenger side, all the rocker arms go up and down.&lt;br&gt;driver side, all of them go up and down.... except 3.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;the little rods that push them up and down you know...?  well, 3 of them arent even there, they are down in that little hole, one is wayyyyyyyyyyyyy down in there!  past the cam it looks like!!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;WTF!!!!!!!!!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;now when i said i heard the motor running, i was on the phone talking to him and he said that was the motor running, i never saw it with my eyes, so idk if he was messing with me or not, but damn now i wish i would have heard it running in that damn truck i got it out of, IN PERSON. &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;how in the HELL could this happen.  is this bad??? my grandpa told me i have to take the entire head off, i might have to get a new camshaft or something....  this is the worst day ever.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;why would i need a new cam though if all the other arms are going up? &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;if no one knows what im talking about with the little rod things being deep in that hole, not pushing up, ill try to find a pic, i didnt take my camera over there today.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;if this is bad news guys, break it to me easy, ive had a rough day, cant even fix my ranchero either :-/</description><pubDate>Sun, 04 May 2008 11:43:28 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>luvzjohnnycash</dc:creator></item><item><title>Rough start</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12506-3-1.aspx</link><description>Hi guys!&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Have a strange thing on my 56 Vicky, I have been living with it for a while now but want to see if anyone has a quick fix or has seen it before.  I searched and didn't come up with anything that seemed related.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;When the car sits for a few days I have to pump and crank it for about 10 seconds then it fires right up.  (I think this is very normal).  Then if I shut it off and restart it within about 5 min's it fires up as soon as I hit the starter.... GREAT...&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;However, the problem is if I run it till it's warm and then shut it off and wait an hour or so (like drive to a cruise or something), it takes a LOT of cranking (20 seconds) and pumping to get it started, then it runs rough for about 5 seconds... and then is back to normal.  If I then shut it off it will start up immediately again.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Could it be something like a stuck choke or bad float bowl or something?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks!!!</description><pubDate>Sat, 10 May 2008 21:34:56 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56-Vicky</dc:creator></item><item><title>please help me, my 292 y block will not start and we've done everything</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspx</link><description>okay, we need help, bad.  ive asked this on the HAMB on jalopyjournal.com but i felt like i was a retard for asking it because some of the responses i was getting, "its not rocket science" or something.  i mean, im only 18 and my dad is disabled and his health is deteriorating, and he can only do so much now... &lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;here's what we've done.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;we've checked the spark plugs for bright blue sparks&lt;br&gt;we've checked the points&lt;br&gt;we've rotated the distributor while trying to start it&lt;br&gt;we've got the firing order correct&lt;br&gt;we've checked the compression&lt;br&gt;we've checked to see if fuel is getting to the carb and it is.&lt;br&gt;we've checked the wiring to the coil and it checks out&lt;br&gt;we've replaced the coil just in case and it checks out to&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="355"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZP3I2sXM-qw&amp;hl=en"&gt;&lt;/param&gt;&lt;param name="wmode" value="transparent"&gt;&lt;/param&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZP3I2sXM-qw&amp;hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;my dad thinks the float is stuck in the carb, but i think its something else.... please help you guys, and i KNOW i was turning it over for a long time, it was the last video of the day before calling it quits, we wanted to give it one last good try.... dont ridicule me for it :-/&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description><pubDate>Sun, 27 Apr 2008 12:18:58 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>luvzjohnnycash</dc:creator></item><item><title>assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>It has been many years since I rebuilt an engine.  The last time was in the late 80's.  At that time I used a lube called moly grease to lubricate my new stock cam for break in.  This time, I had trouble finding it.  The parts stores around here all recommended Clevite assembly lube.  Is this adequate for breaking in a new stock cam?  Advice appreciated.</description><pubDate>Mon, 21 Apr 2008 17:13:34 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tjack</dc:creator></item><item><title>Caster/Camber Shims  1955 Ford</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12482-3-1.aspx</link><description>Trying to have a front-end alignment and nobody in town has shims to correct caster/camber. Where can I purchase them?  Thanks~~~~Ron</description><pubDate>Fri, 09 May 2008 13:09:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tough55</dc:creator></item><item><title>Mixed signals</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12509-3-1.aspx</link><description>Am part way into doing a 58 steering box into 57 conversion. I have the 58 box which has been checked out good. However, I don't have the 58 column assembly.  I'm belatedly advised that there may be a problem with the Turn Signals if I don't also replace the 57 steering column. Yes or no?  Also, could 58 Horn parts ( if I  can find any?) be converted into the 57 column?  It would be nice to avoid having to use a dash mounted horn button!   I have the correct 58 horn ring contact piece, and I'm aware the horn wire has to be re routed, as the 58 steering wheel shaft is not hollow. But, before we start, any definite info appreciated..</description><pubDate>Sat, 10 May 2008 22:47:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>PF Arcand</dc:creator></item><item><title>Disc brake conversion</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12463-3-1.aspx</link><description>I have a disc brake conversion I bought some time ago and I have a question or two. I bought the set because it was advertised as being able to use stock spindles. I got the set and started looking at it and it got me to thinking there may be another way. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I have brake rotors # 5419 from car quest. I think these are monte carlo rotors. Looking at the parts there ir a bushing the shape of a T that must be heated to install on the spindle so the bearing can ride on the bushing to hold up the back of the rotor. It is obvious that the bushings were made as kits were sold for the tbird . My question does anyone know if there is a bearing that will fit into the rotor and rest on the spindle without having the bushing . Take the T and lay it on its side with top of T to the left  and that is what it looks like on the spindle. Bearing rests on the lower part of the T. If there isnt a bearing to fit can I get new rotors with a bearing that will fit without heating the parts and use the calipers I have? I just prefer to have it without the bushings . The less parts the better. Thanks :)</description><pubDate>Thu, 08 May 2008 15:46:36 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56ragtop</dc:creator></item><item><title>Need a photo or diagram of a 55/56 power steering Y block setup</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12425-3-1.aspx</link><description>Anybody have a photo of a Y block power steering setup (original) for a 55 or 56 Ford passenger car with the crossover pipe?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thanks, Dan</description><pubDate>Tue, 06 May 2008 19:06:29 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Daniel Jessup</dc:creator></item><item><title>1954 239 Cam gear install</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12447-3-1.aspx</link><description>Ok guys here is what i have i,am a machine shop lost my pics of the engine when i took it apart. Any How i sent the cam out to get re-ground i need a pic with description of how the cam gear gets installed i looked at the one that was posted but what i need is the parts labeled. Parts i have cam gear spacer counter weight eccentric  bolt with washer.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;When i put it together in this order retaining plate cam gear counter weight eccentric spacer washer with lock washer and bolt and tq. it up the cam locks up with no end play.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Mike</description><pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 18:42:59 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Rogers Performance</dc:creator></item><item><title>BELL HOUSING IDENTIFICATION</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12373-3-1.aspx</link><description>Morning all,&lt;P&gt;Need some help with ID  on AG 6394B (Casting Number) Y-Blk Stick Bell Housing. Believe it to be 1956-57&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;312 . Can anyone Verify? Any Help Appreciated.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Jack</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 05:58:19 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>500amp</dc:creator></item><item><title>Leaking head gasket</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12422-3-1.aspx</link><description>I filled the engine up with coolent the othey day and i had a leak on the drivers side head.the engine has had a valve job, heads milled .025.when i assembled the engine i torqued them once to #75 .after the leak showed up i retorqued to #90 it slowed down but still leaked some.i took the heads off and checked for flatness and they are ok.i miked the gasket as the hoosier man suggested.the fire ring was .o52 and the outer part of the gasket is .045.so it looks like the ring isnt compressing enough.the head bolts arnt bottoming out and the guide pins have enough clearance,also the two long bolts are in the outer holes.i talked to john murmmert about the gaskets and he said they havent had a problem with best gaskets.he will probably replace them but i am a little leary about trying them again.has anyone else had this problem ,i have thought about using fel pro gaskets.any advice would be greatly appreciated  Carl   ohio </description><pubDate>Tue, 06 May 2008 17:56:25 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>carl</dc:creator></item><item><title>Stock Fuel Pump</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11891-3-1.aspx</link><description>My bird still has the stocker style dual action fuel pump - vacuum on the top end / fuel below. It delivers fuel OK  - with no back pressure - but acts like it "gets behind" the engine and starves it when you hit it hard. The pump fittings have tiny little inlet and outlet holes in them - and I put a serious pressurized fuel filter on there in consideration of the crud in the ancient tank. I believe the more modern carbs have a bit more inlet pressure required than the old t-pot too. Does anyone have good performance data about one of these originals? &lt;P&gt;This week I splurged and replaced the Holley 600cfm outfit I had on there with  a new 525cfm Road Demon Jr. To try and get a handle on the fuel supply thing, I borrowed Al Frakes dyno sheet and had a look at the BSFC (brake specific fuel consumption) numbers. It shows the kind of "pounds per horsepower hour" fuel demand present when you are making 300+ horses. The peak was .544 (#/hp hr) which is about 30 gallons per hour at the carb (at whatever pressure it demands - no big deal on the dyno, that one is a good sized electric that won't starve an engine under test). This number was produced at a rate of acceleration of 300 rpm/sec - not exactly drag race stuff. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I found this page out of the Holley catalog that shows "real" loaded performance data for their 80 and 110 gph pumps and gives some idea of what they do when the load is 4.5 psi. The 80 gph model looks like it could deal with the 300 hp situation - stays over 30 gph - but thats without a fuel filter or any loss due to sucking through a little 15 foot tube.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt; &lt;A title=http://www.holley.com/BrowseCatalogs.asp?Catalog=Holley&amp;amp;Page=196 href="http://www.holley.com/BrowseCatalogs.asp?Catalog=Holley&amp;amp;Page=196"&gt;http://www.holley.com/BrowseCatalogs.asp?Catalog=Holley&amp;amp;Page=196&lt;/A&gt;&lt;FONT face=Verdana&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Verdana&gt;I am sorely tempted to try one of these FE pumps on my bird - but will it fit in the space by the frame rail? Has someone tried this particular brand of pump on a t-bird? I believe it will need a new (larger, cleaner) feed tube from the tank to work right. I promise not to cry over the loss of the "original vacuum wiper" system.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;&lt;FONT face=Verdana&gt;Al was thinking he would try to retain his original pump and then feed it with an electric "supercharger" pump. Is there someone using that arrangement with success?&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"&gt;&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt; </description><pubDate>Fri, 18 Apr 2008 12:05:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>AZ28</dc:creator></item><item><title>Engine Block Values</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12394-3-1.aspx</link><description>So I have acquired half a dozen or so "Y Block"  bare engine blocks.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;ECZ A,Cs,etc.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;NO MAIN CAPS ON ANY OF THEM :angry:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Are they worth anything? Or do they go directly to scrap?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Oldmics</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 18:09:49 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Oldmics</dc:creator></item><item><title>Carburetor Leaks Down.</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12442-3-1.aspx</link><description>I finally got my y block started after a few problems like accidentially put wires on new cap in the right order but one hole over, and the carburetor power valve was leaking fuel in to the engine I had to change the oil and replace the new gasket it seems that when you tighten the power valve the gasket rips. I put a plastic one in there and I filled the bowl with the carb off and it does not seem to be leaking but after I start the car and shut it off the car does not start unless you hold the throttle to the flor. I rebuilt the carburetor and bought a new fuel pump but it still seems to flood. </description><pubDate>Wed, 07 May 2008 13:08:46 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>timmy4</dc:creator></item><item><title>272 block</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12231-3-1.aspx</link><description>I have been on the lookout for a 292 (or 312) to rebuild for my 55 t-bird resto. If I come across a 272, could it be bored to a 292 w/o any problems? Could it accommodate a 312 crank? Thanks for any input. Skip</description><pubDate>Tue, 29 Apr 2008 18:06:47 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>skip</dc:creator></item><item><title>Rocker Arm Shafts</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12363-3-1.aspx</link><description>Hello, Fellas- Would someone please tell me how to go about thoroughly cleaning all the "icky" out of a couple rocker arm shafts?  -Thank You- T.R.M.</description><pubDate>Sun, 04 May 2008 18:31:47 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>The Duck Guy</dc:creator></item><item><title>Y generator for flathead?</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12382-3-1.aspx</link><description>i have both a flattie and a Y and since i've been looking for parts for both, just wondered if a Y generator will work with a late model flathead, or vice versa.?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;why pay more for flathead parts if they work on the cool Y?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;thanks!&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 09:44:58 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>davis</dc:creator></item><item><title>3x2 tri power</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12403-3-1.aspx</link><description>I have a offy manifold and 3 94;s on a stock 292 only running center carb but i am finding it difficult to connect the throttle control rod ( do i need to connect this rod the box is all alloy fordomatic 1958 from  fairlane )&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;thanks mark in englland</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 23:28:11 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>verr1908</dc:creator></item><item><title>Oil Leak  292</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12385-3-1.aspx</link><description>What can cause oil to come out the breather tube. The car has some blo-by, but I have never seen something like this. Oil all over the a frame and oil pan. Help</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 12:05:35 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>wolfmann</dc:creator></item><item><title>Automatic Transmission Swap</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12246-3-1.aspx</link><description>Hi everyone,&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I am looking at buying a 1955 Ford Townsedan parts car to work on my own Townsedan.  One of the things I'm thinking about doing is changing out my three-on-the-tree for the automatic in the parts car.  This would be a straight swap from one to the other, but are there any pitfalls to doings this?  I thought about the fact that my car wouldn't be original, but it's not like it's a Crown Vic, just a car that's been in the family for about 45 years.  Currently, I am the only one who can drive the car, but one of my daughters would like it if it were an automatic. I'm getting ready to do a ground up restoration on the car, so it seems like the best time to do it.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;So what do you guys think?  Thanks in advance.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Mike</description><pubDate>Wed, 30 Apr 2008 13:06:58 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>43mike</dc:creator></item><item><title>Alternator install</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12384-3-1.aspx</link><description>When I install a one wire alternator on my bird tomorrow what do I do with the wires on the regulator? Can I run the POS wire from alternator to ANY + connector. Such as the starter since its close by. Thanks</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 11:54:05 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>55Birdman</dc:creator></item><item><title>Registration question</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12277-3-1.aspx</link><description>When I got my 1955 ford from a friend he got no registration when he got the car and I would like to know what numbers do you have to give to the motor vehecle department to get one thanks.</description><pubDate>Thu, 01 May 2008 09:11:08 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>timmy4</dc:creator></item><item><title>ECZ-C Head Assembly Question</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12376-3-1.aspx</link><description>Before I have to tell my dad what I did will this work? We torqued down the rebuilt heads yesterday but I forgot to wipe off some paint from the gasket surface, head to block. Will this be ok or  shall I get a new gasket and redo it and sleep better. Responses are appreciated since I'm nowhere near as informed as most here and I really hate to fess up to my dad about my blunder. thanks</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 07:14:37 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>elkomn</dc:creator></item><item><title>Exhaust valve size.</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12368-3-1.aspx</link><description>Do all Y-block heads have the same size exhaust valves?What I'm wondering is: Are the exhaust valves in a ECZ-C head any smaller than any other head?</description><pubDate>Sun, 04 May 2008 20:42:55 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>PWH42</dc:creator></item><item><title>Plug wire</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12371-3-1.aspx</link><description>Any one out there have a RED Taylor 90degree plug wire about 30" long. I need one. Have cash can pay. Thanks</description><pubDate>Mon, 05 May 2008 05:34:08 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56ragtop</dc:creator></item><item><title>Plug wire? Header or?</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12339-3-1.aspx</link><description>OK guys I am stuck for the moment. I have the following issue:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;292 with Ford power train headers. 1-4 plugs fit fine .I installed Taylor wires 90 degree and there is a good gap between all plugs . 5-8 is another can of worms. 5&amp;amp;8 fit fine as well a little tighter but still ok. 6 &amp;amp; 7 I barely got the plugs in. I know now I should have installed them before but hindsight is 20/20. The wires are touching the header pipes on 6&amp;amp;7. I could barely get the wire on 7. 6 is about 1/8 gap between header and wire. If I wrap header I wont be able to get plug wire on. I used insulators on them and they burned up so I switched to the Taylor wires.I cut the insulator off an old wire and it fit finebut I dont think I should do that. I could use a lawnmower plug and it would be ok. But...  Any suggestions other than taking the headers off, selling the car,or giving up. Thanks :)</description><pubDate>Sat, 03 May 2008 13:52:13 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56ragtop</dc:creator></item><item><title>C4 identification</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12343-3-1.aspx</link><description>  I want to put a C4 behind a 312 Tbird engine, Can anyone tell me if this C4 is from a V8 car? Tag reads PEE - CA1 - B17C - D5DP - GC. Thanks in advance.</description><pubDate>Sat, 03 May 2008 20:28:12 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>sparky213</dc:creator></item><item><title>My Y-Block won't run properly-Carb Problem?</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12284-3-1.aspx</link><description>Hello all.I could use some quick advice.My 56 Fairlane with 292 4bbl started acting up this afternoon.There is a show on Sunday and I would like to go.My car stalled and when I got it restarted it wont develop power.I have to "feather" the gas to get any kind of power out of it.It will start and then slow right down and stall.The carb is a "teapot" holley rebuilt by an experienced pro builder last year and I dont think it has 500 miles on it. I installed a later model single action fuel pump and thinking maybe too much pressure was flooding carb I reinstalled the original pump.No diffference.I am about 90% sure the float is hanging up for some reason but could use some input before I start messing around with carb.Any other suggestions appreciated.I want to try and fix this tommorow if possible.Thanks Mark</description><pubDate>Thu, 01 May 2008 16:42:50 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>oldcarmark</dc:creator></item><item><title>Holly 4 barrel Carb.</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12327-3-1.aspx</link><description>I am getting ready to put a Holly 4 barrel on my '56 272, bone stock. Has a manual 3 speed and 3:78 gears. Holly recommends a 570 CFM. I was thinking of a 390 or 450. Seems the 450 is for dual 4 barrels and doesn't have a choke. The 390 is more expensive than some. On my 2 barrel now the linkage goes to the right side of the carb and pull back at the bottom of the linkage. Does any 4 barrels work that way and if not other than riggin' something from the right side what's the options? I want a brand new carb out of the box, no messing with it. Plug &amp; play! Thanks ..&lt;br&gt;__________________</description><pubDate>Sat, 03 May 2008 09:58:42 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>ejstith</dc:creator></item><item><title>AOD swap</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12253-3-1.aspx</link><description>I wanted to install a C4 in my 55 TBird but I have seen a few articles about the AOD trans instead. I just want an up to date tranny for my car. No racing just driving around (as long as I can afford the gas). Opinions please on the way to go . What mods do I do to my car  with the AOD vs C4? Thanks</description><pubDate>Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:36:49 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56ragtop</dc:creator></item><item><title>Dist. curve</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12293-3-1.aspx</link><description>Good mornin;;   Does anyone know where to get a recurve kit or what springs for a 57 dist??   Many thanks for the explantions on timing,  Will be putting miine to manifold vac.  Great thread!!!   All you guys are soooo  cool.  Many-many Thanks &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;God Bless</description><pubDate>Fri, 02 May 2008 06:24:38 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Eddie Paskey</dc:creator></item><item><title>MSD distributor</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12222-3-1.aspx</link><description>What are the advantages if any by installing an MSD ignition system in a 292? Thanks:)</description><pubDate>Tue, 29 Apr 2008 15:26:26 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56ragtop</dc:creator></item><item><title>motor mount</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12242-3-1.aspx</link><description>Since removing my engine and getting it rebuilt, I have forgotten which way the motor mounts go on.  I would assume the open side faces the fire wall, but that is a guess.  The car is a 55 Victoria.  Help appreciated.</description><pubDate>Wed, 30 Apr 2008 08:56:50 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tjack</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>