Y-BlocksForever Forum / Y-BlocksForever! Forums 2006 / Technical

Problem with ARP HD oil pump drive shaft

oldcarmark — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 13:20:48 GMT

I bought an ARP HD oil pump shaft.I assume the washer that stops the shaft from pulling out when the distributor is removed goes at the top of the shaft where the block narrows down.With the washer at the lowest it will go against the thicker part of the shaft the oil pump will NOT bolt up to the block.In other words its still not in far enough by about 1-2 inches and the washer cant be moved any further.On the original shaft is the washer at the top under the distributor or at the bottom near the oil pump?The washer on the original is bigger than the ARP one and will NOT enter the block at the bottom because there is a slight shoulder about 2-3 inches in.It will go in enough to bolt up the oil pump and not pull out at the top.Has anyone else had a problem with the replacement ARP shafts?

3 Deuces (94's or 2110's)

Fifty6Vicky — Sun, 08 Mar 2009 19:15:56 GMT

I presently have a rebuilt 292 w/312 heads in my 56 Customline running a 3 deuce setup (Holly 94s). The center carb only is being used (front and rear carbs blocked off). I plan on hooking up all three with progressive linkage. My problem is that I have 3 Holley 2110's and would like to use these to replace the 94s. Advantage? Disadvantage? I am going for more performance, but with economy when just cruising. I'm replacing the factory 3-speed standard with a rebuilt AOD. I've already replaced the stock rear end with a 3.10 9" rear from a 57. Are these 2110s better than the 94s?
[img]http://local.aaca.org/traaca/WM_files/YBlock.jpg[/img]

57 tbird

layourman — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 09:50:52 GMT

Hello! has anybody ever done a restoration on a t bird? doing a # matching car? I am kind of new at this and I am trying to collect now parts for the resto. My question today is about an exhaust valve or heat riser. Can any body tell me about the casting numbers for this part? I have one and the seller claims it is an nos part, but I cant find any numbers on the part! not that i doubt the seller but I dont want to install the part and then have to take it out again because the seller and myself were wrong! I am begining to find out that just buying now parts is risky. Thanks Guys

Header design for Y-blocks

charliemccraney — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 07:05:55 GMT

From the [url=http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic40596-3-1.aspx]Testing ECZ-B vs Mummert 4V intakes – Round One
[/url] thread.

[quote][b]Y block Billy (3/6/2010)[/b][hr]Ted/John,

In the exhaust issue department, What are the best diameters for headers and exhaust systems for a healthy street car?

should primary's be 1 5/8", 1 3/4" and what size collector? should the rest of the system be 2" 2.5" or larger?

I wanted to start making my own set of headers is why I am asking this.[/quote]

This is a question I too am interested in because I plan on building some headers soon. In addition to the questions above, I have one about stepped headers. Is there a certain length that tends to work well before stepping up the header to the next size?
Is it better to match the shape of the ports? Leave the tubes round at the port? Perhaps the same shape, only slightly larger?

SPARK PLUG AND HEADER SPACE

57f100 — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 12:00:57 GMT

hey guys so i finally put the headers on the truck looks great but i noticed i have about half an inch of space between the spark plugs and the headers does any one know of a shorter spark plug i can put on there to give me the space i need also what is the spark plug gap for the 272 thanks guys any help would be great

Theoretical question about valvetrain geometry...

Daniel Jessup — Sat, 13 Mar 2010 17:20:54 GMT

I have read Ted's article in the Y block mag (and his comments here on this site) about rocker arm geometry. Very good stuff-I learned quite a bit, but it did get some gears turning...

My question may be out there a little bit, but I did want to ask to see what, if anything, can one do by playing around with push rod length? Obviously this would change the overall valve lift at the end of the parts train.

Most of the time when I see any info about push rod length, I always read something about the fact that push rod length should match the heads you are using. I understand about the 56-57 lengths being shorter, and that all of the others (54-55, 58-64) were longer. Obviously, in 56 adn 57, all Y blocks came with the ECG 6564 1.54 ratio rocker arms, hence the shorter length. Theoretically, what would happen if one were to use the longer length rod with the hi ratio rockers?

I have early heads on my 292, and one bank has a set of 6564 and the other has (had) a set of 1.43 rockers. I can only assume that one should use push rod length in accordance to rocker arm ratio as mentioned above...correct? Knowing that I am going to put a blower on the motor and I want to get those exhaust gases scavenged at a pretty good rate.....how about using the shorter push rod on the intake rocker and the longer push rod on the exhaust rocker? Would this create a dynamic balance problem with the valve train?

Does all of this sound too whacky to even deal with??? :hehe: Deos anyone else ever have these crazy thoughts?

Y BLOCK OVERHAUL

eyks2 — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:35:45 GMT

AM OVERHAULING A Y BLOCK IN MY CROWN VIC. KNOW THE MOTOR HAS BEEN REPLACED. NOT SURE OF YEAR ; BELIEVE IT TO BE A 57 TRUCK ENGINE. CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE THE ID NUMBERS ARE AND WHERE TO FIND ENGINE ID? NEED INFO SO THAT I CAN PURCHASE CORRECT REPLACEMENT PARTS. THANKS

Took apart my heater-blower and broke the plastic holding the brushes...what to do...

kevinwalshe — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 22:56:20 GMT

When I disassemble the motor, I neglected to pull the brushes off and tapped the shaft and pow! broke the cardboard/plastic mounts that hold the brushes. :w00t: I am changing from 6 volt to 12 volt and was cleaning up the wiring which is why I was taking it apart. Has anyone got a good idea on where I can obtain these parts or ? The motor is still 6 volt and I was gonna use a reducer. Is there a 12 volt motor that will bolt right in? T-bird motor? Any help would be great. Thanks, Kevin

Metal banging noise when 272 running, Please help!

Whitey — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 05:33:28 GMT

G'day All,
I have a 272 fitted to a ski boat that has become my project and seek some knowledge as it'smy first v8. She was bought last Sep after being neglected in a rear yard for 7 years and she definately appeared that way when picked up. The owner stated that the motor was sound and was not the reason he stopped using her but we have all heard that before.
I had the motor out to clean up and fix the hull, but did not pull it right down due to funds available, only removed the manifolds and rocker covers and turned it over with the starter only after a good lube and made sure all moved as it should with all valves etc moving as they should. All of the oil was removed and changed with a new filter fitted and no pieces of metal were found in the sump. I have had her running in the front yard with no worries at all, idling away happily and some sharp revs to piss off the whinging neighbours.
I dropped her in a River today for a last check as I planned to go to a dam for her first trip this weekend.
After a few minutes it all went very bad!! She started to make a metal on metal clanging noise from the block (like hitting it with a hammer). The strange thing was it was sporatic. Like bang....bang..............bangbang.........bang..................bang if you get my drift. It wasn't a constant bang like with every stroke. It seemed louder through the intake when the air cleaner was removed. The motor continued to idle away happily and she was not missing or anything. One side of the exhaust appeared to be a bit steamier than the other if that helps, as the water is dumped into the exhaust just after the manifold to be blown out the back. The oil pressure gauge was reading a steady 70psi with no fluctuations at all.
My dad was with me and he is very mechanical and thinks she may have thrown the top or part of a piston due to possibly being a bit rusty which was now getting knocked around the bore. Looks like I will be pulling the heads off for a look and see what I'm up for.
Any tips or advice is greatly appreciated as I have never worked on a y before now. Does anybody know where a good source of parts, eg pistons etc is as I might be needing them soon, preferably in australia but not necessary if the freight isn't too bad. From a quick look on the net 292 pistons seem cheaper and more readily available so has anybody bored out a 272 and used them instead? Does anybody know of some basic checks I can do while running to problem solve before I pull it down to narrow the problem?
Thanks for any replies.
Geoff the broken hearted ski boat owner!!

Allright, the updates are gonna start coming again!

Dan — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 11:42:53 GMT

I am tired of telling you guys we are gonna get this built and then nothing happens, as such, the y-block for our T is moving to the head of the line! Yesterday the kids pulled the engine from the car and this morning gave it a good bath. This afternoon cam bearings and freeze plugs go in....

Before we put the cam bearings in, anything special I need to watch our for? The first one is different from the rest, right? It is wider and the rest are all the same?? Line up the oil holes and the third one has to line up with the holes on the side???

Thanks!

Valley cover

Barry L — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 22:00:08 GMT

Anyone have a good pic or description of the valley cover that's needed for a 2-4 ford intake (teapots)? Bottom of manifold hits hard on a regular cover...also tried a Mummert cover and even with no gasket, there was still a lot of interference. Thanks Barry L

Home made intake

Flying Jester — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 14:54:59 GMT

I have been thinking about making up an intake for my 292. I was thinking about making a hot 4V, but then I thought about other configurations.
These are the carbs I have:
4 holley 2Vs from Mopar 360s (identical, about 200 cfm each)

7 solexs for Volvo B230 (about 170 CFM each)

1 Holley 4V from Y

These are what I thought about making with what I have:

1 X 6
4 X 2

this could be groovy:
2 X 2 with 3 X 1 between them as secondaries.

Is it just a horrible idea to make a freak intake, or could this be a really unique part that functions well?

Composition Head Gaskets-install dry or with sealer?

oldcarmark — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:52:09 GMT

I am using a Victor gasket set to reassemble my motor.The head gaskets are composition type.Do they go on dry or use a sealant?Should they be retorqued after initial (how many)miles?Do I use factory torque for headbolts or go higher because of composition type gaskets?Thanks!

Carb Spacer to Accept PCV Feed

montego_gto — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 09:05:09 GMT

Guys,

I'm going to run a ECZ-9425-B intake with either an Autolite 4100 or a small CFM Holley. I've installed a PCV valve on my '62 292 y-block and am having a hard time figuring out a way to plumb it under the carburetor. The top of the intake is not a solid flat machined surface. I have a cast aluminum spacer off a mid-60's 352 or 390 that accepts a PCV but the bottom is open. My stock '69 351W 4V intake accepted it fine because it had a flat machined carb mounting surface that sealed the bottom of the spacer. When it is installed on the y-block intake, the sealing surfaces don't line up thus creating a vacuum leak.

I've been looking at aftermarket carb spacers and not one description that I've read specifically says set up for PCV. I've noticed "ported" and "non-ported" in descriptions. Can I assume ported means it has the ports that lead to the primary throttle bores and a place to hook in a hose barb? I figured I could get ahold of Summit's tech line but figured I would ask you guys first because of the familiarity of using stock y-block intakes.

Thanks!

Nick in WI

WIRING HELP!! She won't turn over.

Apache — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:45:39 GMT

Okay guys, it's been a while, but i've been trying for two days just to get the ignition wiring set-up. I thought I had it set and went to turn her over, to no avail. I've looked through wiring diagrams and it looks all right, but apparently it's not. Does anyone have pics of there wiring (by the starter solenoid)? Remember, i've converted it to the 12v system. Here's the list of everything, I will go into more detail if need be:

-Cable from 12V BAT to the BAT side of the solenoid.
-Cable from Starter to starter side of the solenoid.
-Cable from + side of coil to Ign.(I) side of solenoid.

Here's the ONLY part(s) that I think MAY be wrong????

-Cable from BAT side of solenoid to the BAT side of Ignition switch.
-Cable from Coil side of Ignition switch, to + side of Coil.
-Cable from the Switch(S) side of the solenoid to neutral safety switch, from neutral safety switch to the Switch(S) side of the Ignition Switch.

edelbrock 553 -573 Triple Carb Difference.

Richard — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:27:48 GMT

Hi,
I know the 553 has smaller ports, but how much smaller than the 573 and can a 553 be opened up to match my heads.
Richard

312 Headers

Richard — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:41:53 GMT

Hi,
Who makes a goof set of headers for a 312 going into a 54 Ford. I understand the Reds Headers are not that good, and the 57 and later stock exhaust manifolds out perform the earlier manifolds. But does anyone else make an alternative.
Thanks,
Richard

Phenolic spacer for the Holley Teapot...

Daniel Jessup — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 16:27:26 GMT

Just about time to bolt the intake onto the y block on the test stand. Does anybody have a lead on a phenolic spacer for the holley teapot? It does not have to be tapped for PCV. Has anyone ever made one out of wood?? If so, what type?

Isky F-300

lowrider — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 20:17:07 GMT

Anyone have any experience running this camshaft? Looking to go a bit more aggressive than the 270 cam I got from Mummerts. It specs out at .448 lift, 250 duration @50, 108 lobe center & 70deg. overlap. It's going in a 57 Ford 292, 113 heads, Edelbrock 553 3x2, Reds headers, T5 trans & 4:11 rear end. One other cam I'm looking at is from CompCams. Is a dual pattern cam that specs out at .489 lift, intake duration 239@50, exhaust duration 253@50 with 107 lobe center. Would either of these cams be a good choice or does anyone have any ideas on a more aggressive cam? I do all my driving on the street.

Sheet Metal Intake/Welding help

MarkMontereyBay — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 21:08:21 GMT

I have been looking at the Hollow Head website and their intake manifold innovation is really something. I want to make a sheet metal/aluminum EFI Mulitport MAF Long runner intake. I have very little welding experience. Some of the mini-welders are affordable. Can anybody coach me along as to what welder and material to use. I know what I want to build and where to get injector bungs. The idea is to build it to accept a Ford EEC IV 5.0/5.8 GT40 Mustang/First Gen F150 Lightning system. I have a 95 Ford F150 Lightning 5.8 Ford Racing Supercharger as well as the Ford MAF conversion system including the processor, wiring, fuel pump booster, MSD adjustable boost activated timing retard, 19lb injectors, etc. sitting under my bench.

Mark Hebard

Mild 1st stage tuning a ´60 F-100

Effieheizer — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 05:04:37 GMT

Hi!

I´m sure there exist more than this threads about my rooky question. But I did´n found clear answers to my planed setup. :blink:

My 292 is still innocent ... not fresh but in good shape. And I´ll throw out that ugly cross over exaust with the lousy sound and performance. Headers from Reds seem to be the right choice. Also the little intake manifold should replace. I think about a blue thunder from John Mummert with a 500 edelbrock carb.

What do you think about this setup?

Marcel

PS: Used parts and junkjard sessions aren´t possible, because of my location .... GERMANY. Sorry for my english btw.

How many parts make up the spin-on oil filter adapter?

oldcarmark — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:20:16 GMT

Can someone tell me how many round plates are used on the spin-on oil filter adapter?When I tore down my motor there was the plate that the filter seals against and behind it was another smaller plate also marked "top" which I can see no purpose to.Maybe its left over from the original cannister filter.Should there just be the plate which seals against the block using the rubber "O Ring"?Thanks!

power assist help needed..

gentz — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 20:03:00 GMT

well i redid my lower control arm bushings and now i have power assist to one side with a finger i can turn, thats to the right, but to the left i have some resistance... i tried adjusting the nut but no go....any ideas or should i rebuild or find me a used unit?

Borg Warner R-11 Overdrive Questions

Jerome — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 18:58:33 GMT

I have a pre 60's 1957 Ford Borg Warner R-11-1J overdrive assembly. Ford's part numbers for the planetary gear, sun gear and ring gear are 8L-7673, 8L7670 & 8L-7653 respectively. Borg Warner has their own part numbering system.

Does anyone know the Borg Warner part numbers for the above?

Does anyone know the Ford and BW part numbers for post 60's Ford truck R-11 overdrives?

My hope is pre and post 60 R-11 overdrive parts interchange as that would ease sourcing these rare parts.

Jerome

Light Switch wiring

yehaabill — Sun, 21 Feb 2010 16:00:52 GMT

Y-Guys I hope this is not a "can't see the trees for the forest" question but,

here goes... I'm trying to update my headlight switch('60 F100) but my

original Ford shop manual says what color goes where on the switch but,

it doesn't say what color goes to what accessory...............HELP!

Thx in advance

Bill

56 Ford brake self adjusters

Dave V — Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:29:04 GMT

I would like to install brake self adjusters to the original drum brakes on my 56 Victoria. I notice that Mac's has the repair kits for 58-59 Mercury. Does anyone know if these will work on my 56 Ford. Or are there any other sources for the correct kits. Thanks Dave

1957 Distributor

Nat Santamaria — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 07:13:40 GMT

Hi gents. I have the 57 T Bird with a Fordomatic that had hesitation and very sluggish performance. As suggested I advanced the timing and it has made a huge difference. The issue now is the hard turn over condition which suggests the timing is too far advanced. If I retard the the timing just a hair it reverts back to the sluggish performance. I am sure running the car in this advanced timing is likely to harm the engine. I have read some other posts regarding vacuum advance, distributor weights etc., and I have some questions. Does the distributor have to be off the car to remove the breaker plate? I would like to check the weights to see if they are stuck or worn. I have tested the vacuum diaphragm with all the internal parts out with my shop vac. It holds a tight seal. With the diaphragm back on the distributor If I advance the breaker plate by hand and then put my thumb over the inlet of the vacuum advance canister it should hold the air in correct? My does not. It releases the air. Inside the Vacuum advance the parts a spring, a tube and the large hex nut. Is there any parts to create an air tight seal in the diaphragm. Are there any parts I am missing? Anything else I should know. I should probably have a mechanic look at it, but this what the hobby is all about. Thanks in advance (no pun intended)

Why are there studs instead of bolts on the oilpan?

oldcarmark — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 19:13:42 GMT

I noticed the 2 bolts that thread into the rear main seal retainer are actually small studs with nuts instead of bolts as used in all other holes to hold the oil pan to the block.Just wondered why studs instead of bolts?Anyone know why?

Data plate rivets?

MG Cook — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 22:36:15 GMT

Where can you purchase the correct rivets to install the data plate ? , I tapped one too hard while installing and screwed it up.

Only two was shipped with my new plate.

Smokin' (not jokin')

Professor Longroof — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 08:05:19 GMT

On two occasions after driving my newly-rebuilt 272, I noticed a small amount of smoke in the area of the left valve cover (as you're looking at it) near the intake manifold. Almost as if something was burning off. The oil and coolant levels were fine. Am I worrying needlessly?

Fuel tank grounding

Dave V — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 19:20:55 GMT

Is a fuel tank and filler neck needed to be grounded for proper operation of fuel gauge and to eliminate the chance of sparking while filling? DV

A Little ID Help Please

57FordPU — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 10:42:07 GMT

Been dealing with pickups all my life, but I have no experience with automatics. I have been getting requests for automatic bells for pickups and I have some, but I am not sure how interchangeable the years are. Can someone tell me what I have here, and the years it will fit in the frames?

Thanks..........Charlie

3X2 Intake Manifold Testing - Results.

Ted — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 05:57:46 GMT

Dyno testing is now complete on the 3X2 intake manifolds. The Edelbrock 573 was at the top of the heap with the Offenhauser being at the bottom. There was a 29HP difference between the best and the worst which is a bunch. The dyno test range for each test was 2500-5500 rpms. Besides looking at both the peak and average horspower and torque values, the engine performance with each intake was also ‘scored’ to get a better feel for overall performance using a single value. The score is calculated by adding both the average HP and torque together and dividing that into the cubic inch of the engine and then multiplying that value by 1000. Testing concluded with the first intake being rerun at the tail end as a validation that the engine was holding steady and because there was still some time left at the end of the day, the new Mummert intake was installed with a 600+ vacuum secondary Holley on top of a 2” four hole spacer and also ran.

Here’s how the various 3X2 manifolds ranked in overall performance from the top to the bottom.

1. 1703.7 pts - Edelbrock ‘573’

2. 1674.7 pts - Edmunds ‘DM-425’ large port

3. 1672.4 pts - Edelbrock ‘553’

4. 1667.7 pts - Edmunds ‘DM-424D’ small port

5. 1661.2 pts - Weiand ‘FM436’ large port

6. 1646.9 pts - Edmunds ‘FORD 424’ small port

7. 1561.2 pts - Offenhauser w/no identifying numbers

The test engine is a +060 over 312 with 9.2:1cr, dead stock ‘G’ heads, and Harland Sharp 1.6:1 rockers. The same Stromberg carbs were used on all the manifolds without any jetting changes once manifold testing commenced. The camshaft is a Crower Monarch with 238° @ 0.050”, ground on 110° lobe centers, installed 2° advanced, and 0.434” lift at the valve after valve lash. All testing was performed with four tube headers running through Magnaflow mufflers. This series of 3X2 intake manifold testing is also part of the durability testing being performed on the prototype Harland Sharp rockers which so far appears to be holding up fine.

For those of you that live and breathe horsepower and torque numbers, here are the peak values for the 3X2 intake manifolds but are still being listed in their order of scoring.

1. 336.0 Tq / 279.3 HP - Edelbrock ‘573’

2. 336.1 Tq / 266.5 HP - Edmunds ‘DM-425’ large port

3. 334.1 Tq / 270.1 HP - Edelbrock ‘553’

4. 338.6 Tq / 260.1 HP - Edmunds ‘DM-424D’ small port

5. 332.1 Tq / 266.2 HP - Weiand ‘FM436’ large port

6. 330.4 Tq / 261.9 HP - Edmunds ‘FORD 424’ small port

7. 311.5 Tq / 250.8 HP - Offenhauser w/no identifying numbers

And here’s the order in which the intakes were run on the engine.

1. Edelbrock ‘573’

2. Offenhauser w/no identifying numbers

3. Edelbrock ‘553’

4. Weiand ‘FM436’ large port

5. Edmunds ‘FORD 424’ small port

6. Edmunds ‘DM-424D’ small port

7. Edmunds ‘DM-425’ large port

8. Edelbrock ‘573’ (reinstalled to validate earlier run)

9. Mummert single four intake with 600 Holley (291.9HP / 346.0Tq)

Intake manifold changes were down to 35 minutes each at the end.

Power Steering pump an bracket for my´60 F-100

freegismo — Tue, 02 Mar 2010 15:32:26 GMT

Hi.

I´m new and glad to be here.

I´ll order some parts next month in the USA. I´m from Germany and the most dealers here didn´t help me at all. All I need for a nice lowering and a discbrake conversion will be here soon. I also think about a suitable Power Steering like the CPP "Toyota Kit". But there´s no steering pump or any bracket at my engine.

Could anyone tell me what kind of pump I should prefer and where I´ll find the necessary brackets, pulley and everything else to make an easy fit?

Thank you ... Marcel

PS: Sorry for my bad english!

Beware of NOS gaskets

46yblock — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:38:34 GMT

Many of you may already not trust NOS gaskets. As for me I often learn the hardway.

6 mos. or more ago I bought an oil pan NOS gasket on epay. Yesterday was the time to use it. I only looked at it briefly upon arrival, and noted it was a Felpro curiously made of a composite cloth like material.

Got the pan and block all prepped with RTV, and even put in three temporary studs to help keep the gasket aligned (engine on stand). Pulled out the gasket and no way did it fit. It had shrunk up so that no amount of tugging or pulling was going to get it to fit. What a mess and waste of time! Threw the gasket into the trash can and then began cleaning up all that RTV!

What exhaust manifold coating to use.

GregW — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 00:36:39 GMT

They look so good after bead blasting Im thinking it would be nice to keep that look for a while.

Anyone have any products they liked for coating exhast manifolds? Just looking to keep them pretty for a while, not a professional ceramic coat or anything.

I thought there was a post on it but I cant seem to find it again....

Thanks

Gregory

no spark

BrianL — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 08:12:54 GMT

Hi guys,

Been working on my winter project (B style intake, ported bores to a Demon Jr 525) & finally got all the parts & time to put it back together. Problem is she won't fire. Suspecting it must be something I just did (usually is isn't it?), I went over everything & don't see anything obvious. I figure it's gotta be fuel, spark or compression. I didn't take the heads off, so rule out me messing compression up. I just replaced the carb so fuel seems likely. But I wanted to also confirm spark. I have a 57 dizzy with a Pertronix, & that was working fine. I didn't remove the dizzy or plug wires when swapping intakes, so timing wasn't disturbed. I did relocate the coil (Flamethrower coil). Another clue is I have been chasing down intermittent brake & tail light issue (success on that one) while I was saving up to buy the carb & parts. So had the ignition switch on for periods of time without the engine running.

I have searched the site & saw that it's possible to burn the Pertronixs Igniter 1 up by doing so if the Hall switch happens to be closed. I contacted Pertronixs & they told me how to check by using a meter & sweeping the magnet by the sensor. So it failed that test, I think I found the issue, & buy an Ingitor 2 so that won't happen again. I decide to also buy all new spark plugs & put them in with the new Igniter. I put in the new stuff, have 12.6V to the positive coil terminal, & still nothing. I lay a spark plug on my exhaust manifold with plug wire attached & see no spark when turning over. Also try a timing light & see no flashes of the light. I should see something I believe with either of these two methods. I have a good ground to the Igniter mount plate as suggested by Pertronix.

Ideas to help me chase it down would be appreciated. I think it has to be something simple & likely self induced.

New member seeking help

59ypowerf250 — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 11:28:08 GMT

hello all, just registered today, just wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction. I work at a classic performance shop, but the we dont see to many y blocks come through our shop. My buddy and i are putting together a 59 Ford f250 that has been in his family for 3 generations. We were looking to update the transmission in it from the original cruise-o-matic tranny. I happened to snag a c6 from our shop that was laying around.

My question is, will a c6 mate up to a 292 y block? We really would not like to change the motor over to a 351 or 460. Any tips would be nice. anything is possible as far as fabbing. Has anyone ever seen this done?

Thanks in Advance!

T5 speedo

Dave V — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 06:15:36 GMT

Still doing research to install a T5 trans into my 56 victoria. I found a tranny from a 89 Mustang 5.0 totally rebuilt. Picking it up Monday. Located the clutch needed from J Mummert. Wandering what is going to be needed for the speedometer cable. Was the Mustang an electronic speedometer? Thanks again. Dave.

Hesitation on Acceleration

Nat Santamaria — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 16:31:24 GMT

Hi Guys.
I have a 57 Bird with a 312 and a Fordomatic tranny. Holley 4160 465 CFM carb. I have a bog on acceleration from a stop position. I have new plugs, rotor and wires a year old. The car in idle runs smooth as silk. When I pull away from a light the car bogs and runs rough. Once up to speed it seems OK. If I punch it once at speed she takes off without hesitation. I have checked the front float level. Its right at the bottom of the sight hole. Gas trickles out when car is gently rocked. I had an issue late last year with advance plate sticking (slight rust) in an advanced position. I cleaned it up and lubricated it. It now moves smoothly in both directions. How stiff should the spring be? It takes a bit of effort to move it. I am wondering if the vacuum is strong enough to advance the plate. Vacuum reading is at 18.5 inches at idle in drive. I have advanced the distributor - car runs better but begins to ping and hard start when hot indicating to far advanced. If I retard a it bit it starts bogging again. Its such a fine line. This is cheating a bit - running it at advanced condition. Is the advance spring too tight? Is this something I can adjust without making it worse. My vacuum advance diaphragm is not leaking - I took it off and hooked up to my shop vac to test it. Carb air mixture screws are adjusted 1 1/2 turns out from closed position.

Any ideas?