﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Y-BlocksForever Forum / Y-BlocksForever! Forums 2006 / Technical  / assembly lube / Latest Posts</title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.4</generator><description>Y-BlocksForever Forum</description><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/</link><webMaster>jculver@y-blocksforever.com</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Sun, 12 Oct 2008 07:58:22 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>Thanks for that Ted, it all makes sense now.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Regards Peter.</description><pubDate>Tue, 13 May 2008 02:15:38 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56 effie</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt"&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman"&gt;The 2000+ rpms insures that adequate oil is being thrown at the lobes while also allowing the lifters to slide and spin easier over the lobes.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;At a lower rpm, the lifters will tend to drag or scrape over the lobes with a higher grinding pressure which can accelerate cam and lifter wear.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;The higher rpms helps to ‘burnish’ the lobes on a new cam so the lifters slide easier over them.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;Once this polishing effect has taken place, then the camshaft can tolerate the lower rpms without as much risk of the lobes or lifters wiping out prematurely.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;If for any reason, the full twenty minutes of breakin time must be cut short for whatever reason (usually overheating), then finish out the remaining time when the engine is restarted.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;Ie. If the engine is cut off at the twelve minute point, it still needs eight minutes of cam breakin.&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000000&gt; &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;It’s very important that the engine with a new camshaft fire off immediately as any excessive grinding on the starter is detrimental to the camshaft and lifters.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;This means having the carburetor already full of fuel and the distributor timed close enough to fire up right away.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;</description><pubDate>Mon, 12 May 2008 06:09:34 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Ted</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>Hey Ted, why do we need to break in a new cam at 2000+ rpm, and why for a minimum of 20 minutes? What happens if you come across a problem and have to shut down the engine after 10 min, do you do another 10 min stint to make the 20 or do you have to start the process from scratch. Regards Peter.</description><pubDate>Mon, 12 May 2008 01:30:22 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>56 effie</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>Thanks.  Sounds like you are from my generation.  Is the car in the photo yours?  It's nice.  My car is a 55 Victoria - black and white, with the white vinyl and snowflake fabric interior.  It is currently in restoration, but was a pretty nice original car.  Since the cowl and chassis are being detailed, it will be awhile before the engine is fired off.  I just didn't want all the lube on the cam to dribble off while waiting to be installed.  Guess I worry too much, but I sure don't want to tear that engine down again.  It has been a slow go process.  I am in my comfort zone when it comes to body work and paint, but when I do any mechanical work, it means read and reread every manual I can find, and get all the advice I can get.  Thanks again for taking the time to respond.</description><pubDate>Sat, 10 May 2008 18:16:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tjack</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>"Back in the day" .. lol ... I used STP to lube everything on a new motor. The last one I did was probably back in 81 or 82 and I used STP on that one too. It always worked for me but then again back then they didn't have some special stuff to pre-lube everything with.</description><pubDate>Fri, 09 May 2008 06:43:37 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>ejstith</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>Thanks so much for the info.</description><pubDate>Fri, 25 Apr 2008 14:43:21 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tjack</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt"&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman"&gt;For camshafts and tappet faces, I’m using the ‘black’ Isky Moly lube.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;For the bearings and rocker shafts, I use the Torco MPZ engine assembly lube and GM EOS for the timing gears, oil pump, rings, and cylinder walls.&lt;SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"&gt;  &lt;/SPAN&gt;I do not use the white grease that’s available for any engine assembly operations.&lt;?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt"&gt;&lt;o:p&gt;&lt;FONT face="Times New Roman" color=#000000&gt; &lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/o:p&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;&lt;/P&gt;&lt;SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"&gt;&lt;FONT color=#000000&gt;Camshaft breakin procedure is still going to be important regardless of the lube being used so having the engine fire up immediately and running the rpms up a mininum of 2000 rpms for the first twenty minutes is a pre-requisite.&lt;/FONT&gt;&lt;/SPAN&gt;</description><pubDate>Fri, 25 Apr 2008 04:21:06 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Ted</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>Thanks to all for the responses.  I guess I should have asked first, but I have already assembled my engine using Clevite assembly lube.  This stuff is really thick, and seems to cling to the cam lobes, but not as well as moly grease.  I hope I don't wipe out a cam lobe on break in.  Other comments would be appreciated.</description><pubDate>Tue, 22 Apr 2008 20:03:51 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tjack</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>I used Crane Cams moly assembly lube on the lobes and 30w motor oil on the journals.</description><pubDate>Mon, 21 Apr 2008 18:00:18 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>charliemccraney</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>Moly is still around. I would check with NAPA. There is a lube called ISKY REV-LUBE that works well. Speedway Motors has it $8.00 . I used to use axle grease in the 60s.  If I didnt have any I used rear end grease. Strange world back then.</description><pubDate>Mon, 21 Apr 2008 17:58:07 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>55Birdman</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>:)When I used to rebuild engines for a research  lab we used to lubricate the cam by placing it on a rag and squirt it with 30 weight oil.</description><pubDate>Mon, 21 Apr 2008 17:24:35 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>timmy4</dc:creator></item><item><title>assembly lube</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11973-3-1.aspx</link><description>It has been many years since I rebuilt an engine.  The last time was in the late 80's.  At that time I used a lube called moly grease to lubricate my new stock cam for break in.  This time, I had trouble finding it.  The parts stores around here all recommended Clevite assembly lube.  Is this adequate for breaking in a new stock cam?  Advice appreciated.</description><pubDate>Mon, 21 Apr 2008 17:13:34 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tjack</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>