InstantForum.NET v4.1.4Y-BlocksForever Forumhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/jculver@y-blocksforever.comSun, 07 Sep 2008 21:17:40 GMT20http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxBefore you spend the cash on a repair you might want to see if you can find another engine that you can actually go to and see run. That may be cheaper in the long run. Just a thoughtSun, 08 Jun 2008 03:29:30 GMT55Birdmanhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxLet us know what the Mech figures out.Sat, 07 Jun 2008 15:38:14 GMTandyifferts58http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxthis post of mine does have the most replies doesnt it? if anyone ever runs across a problem with theirs, read through each of these pages, its probably in there.<br><br><br>as for me.... ive given up. im resorting to taking it to the mechanic on either monday, or tuesday. put a lot of thought into it... and me, my dad, and grandpa, think its best. its gona cost a lot of money im sure... so my graduation money, work money ive been saving up, and maybe even a little bit of my money put aside for college books, will be gone.<br><br>i'd rather have it running and it done RIGHT, than me and my dad keep trying stuff and it not working. i wanna thank everyone for their advice, i appreciate it more than you can imagine! i think right now though, a mechanic is what i need to take it to...Sat, 07 Jun 2008 15:01:18 GMTluvzjohnnycashhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxHuh - So far THE MOST REPLIED TO THREAD IN TECH - sure great so many want to help.Sun, 01 Jun 2008 19:07:38 GMTSam_Fearhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxI'm no expert to engine building or such but through my experience I've ran across a couple of situations where the engine has ran but at the next start up would not. Went through all checks suggested here with no results. Come to find out the cam was bad. Just an idea.Sun, 01 Jun 2008 17:59:09 GMTRich Stahlehttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxIt ran once, it'll run again. Sometimes a little time away from the problem might make things more clear. Congrats on graduating! Have some fun.<br><br>When you get back to it, take another video of it - watching those really helps with diagnosing.Thu, 29 May 2008 12:50:56 GMTSam_Fearhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxI dont know for sure but I am old and could have missed it . I have been following this since day one and I am sure we may have had some thoughts on this. First of all CONGRATULATIONS for graduating . Not many of your kind out there . I am a teacher (was) and education is important to me. Now the hard part starts its called life. You obviously have the determination to do well and I wish you the best. But all that aside maybe you would want to consider getting another engine . It may be better in the long run.Use the one for parts. Dont think of it as being defeated just delayed a bit. Just a thought Thu, 29 May 2008 12:01:20 GMT55Birdmanhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxwell everyone i apologize i havent been on here in the past week or so.<br><br>i just graduated high school last night, and this past week has been filled with finals, tests, and planning for a trip to the beach with me and 3 of my best friends.<br><br><br><br>i havent had time to work on the 292 in a while, but i just read all these replies. i understand that to make the best of a bad situation, humor helps, and i understand that what im trying to do, getting an engine to start, shouldnt be this hard. like someone mentioned, when i finally do, that's when we can make fun of me :D for now, i really do need the help. im not offended by the 'flux capacitor' remark, i understand. im a young guy, your the knowledgable ones.<br><br>but yea hopefully soon ill have a mechanic come out and look at it or something. i need to try and find one who does house calls who can help me out. just keeping you all informed. thank you for the help, i appreciate itThu, 29 May 2008 08:59:59 GMTluvzjohnnycashhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxYep:<br><br>I was thinking of position rotor needs to be.<br>You are right clockwise to advance. I did an edit to correct it.<br>marvThu, 22 May 2008 18:36:10 GMTmarvhhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxMarv:</P><P>Since a Y distributor rotates counterclockwise, wouldn't you turn the housing clockwise to advance the timing?</P><P>John Thu, 22 May 2008 18:20:09 GMTHoosier Hurricanehttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxJason:<br>I am not going to repeat all the tests and methods previously posted, lots of excellent information there. I think you have to do some electrical problem eliminations. This is my opinion of your problem while listening to your audio/video recording. The engine is cranking over but only fires when on the starter, this I believe when you hear the whirring of the starter and the engine still trying to run, then quits. To prove this is electrical you should make a jumper wire up by cutting a length of 14 ga. insulated wire or what you have available, then stripping both ends or installing alligator clips if have. Length needs to reach from the + post of your battery to your coil, (check to see your battery has been installed correctly, negative to ground and positive to starter solenoid) hook this wire from your battery positive post to your coil (don`t hook to the ballast resister, hook direct to coil). Your coil will have 2 terminals either marked batt and dist or + and - . If coil has batt. and dist. hook the jumper wire to batt terminal on coil or if has + and - hook jumper wire to + terminal on coil. This will bypass all your key switch and starter solenoid circuitry so if you have a bad key switch you have bypassed it, or a bad wire from key switch to coil or a bad ballast resister you have also bypassed it or a bad wire from the solenoid to the coil also bypassed. <br><br>I also think the timing is late too. While having someone crank over the engine you move the distributer in a clockwise direction. You should not have to move the distributer more than 22.5 degrees as that is one-half plug position on the cap. If an engine is out one plug position it will not even fire the way yours is doing. If the engine starts move the distributer to where the engine runs the smoothest, then move just slightly counter-clockwise. If your vacuum advance hits the firewall or manifold talk to us and we will help you move the distributer one tooth or move the wires one hole. Do not run the engine too long with this jumper wire as it will burn your points. After engine is running you need to eliminate further electrical circuitry by removing the jumper wire from the coil and now hooking it to the ballast resister on terminal opposite from the short wire that goes to the coil, other words the incoming side of the ballast resister, if engines starts-runs now try it now without the jumper wire to prove out the key switch or wire from key switch to ballast resister.<br>marvThu, 22 May 2008 15:50:30 GMTmarvhhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxThere has to be someone out there that could go by and give him a hand! How about it guys? Chuck in NH (bit far for me)Thu, 22 May 2008 12:43:56 GMTMoonShadowhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxIf I remember correctly he said he's in Bakersfield, Ca.<br><br>Thu, 22 May 2008 12:06:19 GMTHT32BSX115http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxHumor is a definate part of this forum. But in this case the young man's frustration level must be horrendous. So perhaps humor would not have it's normal effect. Once Jason figures out the problem and gets the thing running then we can all have a laugh about it. It dosen't sound like he has much experience with working on cars (includes his family) and I for one give him a lot of credit for staying with it. <P>Jason does need to let us know where he lives. Perhaps we know someone nearby that could help. Chuck in NHThu, 22 May 2008 09:22:36 GMTMoonShadowhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxDuck Guy:</P><P>On behalf of Jaon, I accept your apology. I told Jason early on that I was sure no one here would make fun of him, and therefore my reply. Keep your sense of humor, you did not have to check it at the door when you entered here. We want to keep Jason here and we want to get his car running.</P><P>JohnThu, 22 May 2008 09:22:17 GMTHoosier Hurricanehttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxSorry, John- I hope you can find it within you to excuse my sense of humor. In my defense I can only say no one informed me that I had to give it up before I registered here... Again, many apologies- FWIW, here's a link to the thread where "people made fun of his difficulties" <A href="http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262564&amp;highlight=Y+block">http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=262564&amp;highlight=Y+block</A>Thu, 22 May 2008 08:30:51 GMTThe Duck Guyhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxWell said John and Moon-- Kid's got some problems!!! God BlessThu, 22 May 2008 06:26:31 GMTEddie Paskeyhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxDitto. I wish someone lived near enough to go take a look. By the way where do you live? Chuck in NHWed, 21 May 2008 21:44:12 GMTMoonShadowhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxDuck Guy:</P><P>This poor kid came here for help, people on another site made fun of his difficulties. And now this. KNOCK IT OFF.</P><P>JohnWed, 21 May 2008 18:48:39 GMTHoosier Hurricanehttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxSounds like a bad Flux Capacitor- Have you checked the Jiggawatt output? A good lightning storm may be all you need :DWed, 21 May 2008 15:15:01 GMTThe Duck Guyhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxHi- As Sam said be sure you have electricity to the coil when the key is in the "run" position. You may have a bad ballast resistor, also called a coil resistor, that thingy that is located near the coil. If it is bad, the engine will only run when the key is in the "start" position. When you go to the run position, the engine dies. That's kinda what it sounded like in your video. You can temporarily run a jumper wire with two alligator clips between the terminals of the ballast resistor, and then try it again. If it runs, then you need to replace the ballast resistor. </P><P>I certainly agree with Rex, if it still doesn't run, it's time to hire a professional and let him diagnose the problem. It'll be worth a few bucks and you can enjoy the car this summer, hopefully. Good luck! Nick Brann, K.C., MOTue, 20 May 2008 19:40:31 GMTNick Brannhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxPlease reply! If the valve adjustment is not set to 20 thousands the engine will not start!</P><P>Also it does sound like the bendix drive (wich is on the end of the starter) might be wore out. </P><P>Does it make that noise every time?</P><P>How long will it crank before it makes that noise?Mon, 19 May 2008 20:04:18 GMTjnswilsonhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspx<br>[quote][b]57 Ford Kustom (5/17/2008)[/b][hr] That noise you hear is the bendix drive on the starter, a weak spring is allowing the gear to disengage too soon.<br><br>T:cool:M[/quote]<br><br>This sounds possible.<br><br>That whirrr is the Bendix disengaging and spinning free. (Bendix=small gear on the started that gets pushed out to engage the gear on the flywheel - should retract on its own when it spins fast enough) I could see where a weak spring would cause it to retract too early. <br><br>***Don't let the starter grind anymore - YOU'LL DESTROY YOUR FLYWHEEL!!!!!!*** <br>And besides, I hate that noise. <br><br>Your key has 4 positions ACC, OFF, RUN, START. START is where you turn to start and RUN is where it automatically flips back to when you release it from START. <br><br>Sun, 18 May 2008 07:22:39 GMTSam_Fearhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxluvsjohnnycash</P><P>whats in the spray can your father is using &amp; is he spraying that into the carby ?</P><P>the starter sounds normal when its cranking the whiring noise is it disengaging the grinding noise is the starter re-engaging while still spinning this can happen if you hit start on the key before the starter stops spinning or your starter solenoid is either wired wrong or needs to be replaced</P><P>how are you cranking it over in the video no one is turning the keySun, 18 May 2008 05:56:58 GMTMozhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxOK cut the BS. WHAT HAVE YOU DONE? UNDERSTAND=WHAT HAVE YOU DONE? Something is changed, what is it? These guys are trying to help you and you refuse to help by answering the questions. IF YOU WANT THE ANSWER you must try to answer the questin. WORK A LITTLE YOURSELF.Sat, 17 May 2008 20:27:51 GMTPete 55Tbirdhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspx[quote][b]Sam_Fear (5/17/2008)[/b][hr]Q: What have you done since you found the push rods?<br><br>Is it stalling AFTER you release the key from the START position?? Or is the key in START when it quits?<br><br>Make sure you are getting juice to the distributor in the RUN position. Still could be valve timing.[/quote]<br><br>not sure what you mean.<br><br>when i turned the key over, it would act like it wants to start... and as its doing that, the starter is making a whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrring sound, then i turn the key off, and it sorta winds down, like you hear in the video (minus that grinding part, my dad was just messing around and trying something, not letting it fully stop before trying again)<br><br>but yea my uncle came over and helped us out before having to leave so yea, a lot of progress today, i hate being so close without a cigar thoughSat, 17 May 2008 20:21:59 GMTluvzjohnnycashhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxQ: What have you done since you found the push rods?<br><br>Is it stalling AFTER you release the key from the START position?? Or is the key in START when it quits?<br><br>Make sure you are getting juice to the distributor in the RUN position. Still could be valve timing.Sat, 17 May 2008 17:14:37 GMTSam_Fearhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxYou are getting close sounds like it wants to run. That noise you hear is the bendix drive on the starter, a weak spring is allowing the gear to disengage too soon.</P><P>T:cool:MSat, 17 May 2008 14:21:30 GMT57 Ford Kustomhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxIt doesn't sound like the starter is affecting the start. When the engine starts to run the starter drive disengages just like it's supposed to.<br><br>Did you check your timing chain/sprockets to see if they slipped? It sure sounds like mine did when that happened. (all the valves are opening and closing too right?)<br>Sat, 17 May 2008 14:13:08 GMTHT32BSX115http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspx<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Jr2mN6X5dIg&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Jr2mN6X5dIg&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object><br><br>lets see if the video shows up in a postSat, 17 May 2008 12:14:51 GMTluvzjohnnycashhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jr2mN6X5dIg<br><br><br>we HAD IT GOING ALMOST, the damn starter is preventing it from starting. every single time we did this, that grinding sound happen. it sounds like its going to start, then 'GREEERRRRRRRRRRRREKERKRR' ,that damn sound from the starter.<br><br>what is causing this!?? we're so close!<br><br><br>we just have to fix that problem and we can get it! omgggSat, 17 May 2008 12:14:13 GMTluvzjohnnycashhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxJn: I agree with rex, your situation has turned into a disaster. You need on site, hands on, professional assistance.Wed, 14 May 2008 21:15:05 GMTPF Arcandhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxBefore you get too frustrated and start hating the project or worse getting into it with your dad, print this entire post take the car to someone who knows older engines that you trust and have them walk through the issues. I like to solve my own problems but at some point you just get so buried in the issues you can't see the solutions. May burn a few dollars, but you will have your car back and be able to enjoy the summer. Wed, 14 May 2008 05:05:01 GMTrexbdhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxHowdy, <br><br>I read thru all the posts and someone did mention it but I'll add that I had a problem with my (former) 239 Y in my F-600.<br><br>I had replaced the points and condenser with a Pertronix system and it ran very good after.<br><br>Just before I pulled the engine it started running worse and worse. (it was pretty worn out)<br><br>One day if got to where it wouldn't start and I put a timing light on it and found I had to rotate the dist at least 90 degrees!!<br><br>and after messing with it I finally got it started but it had no power!! I had a REALLY hard time starting it even after rotating the dist.<br><br>This is indicative of a timing chain that has jumped. <br><br>If your timing has changed (a lot) then you might look there. You'd have to pull the timing cover but if this is the problem you'll need to replace the timing set anyway.<br><br><br>Cheers, <br><br><br><br><br>btw, hows the wx in Bakerspatch? I used to live in Taft!!Tue, 13 May 2008 10:58:51 GMTHT32BSX115http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspx<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt"><FONT color=#000000><FONT face="Times New Roman">And insure that the spark plugs are clean and not gas fouled. You might try spinning the engine over with a spark plug out and grounded and with the spark wire in place to insure an nice crisp blue spark. If you've got a ragged orange spark, then go back into the ignition and bring it back up to spec.</FONT></FONT></SPAN>Mon, 12 May 2008 06:17:11 GMTTedhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspx<SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><FONT color=#000000>Double check that you have compression on all eight cylinders.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>At least 75 lbs is expected to be enough to get you fired up.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Check that you have ‘fire’ at the spark plugs.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>Double check that your TDC on the damper is not slipped thereby throwing you off on the distributor timing.<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </SPAN>This and more has been touched base on already so just be sure to not skip any of the details by assuming “it’s okay”.</FONT></SPAN></P><P><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman'; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-fareast-font-family: 'MS Mincho'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA"><FONT color=#000000>Post your findings.</FONT></SPAN>Mon, 12 May 2008 06:06:14 GMTTedhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxI am telling you check the valve adjustment it must be correct or it will not start!!!!!!!!!!Sun, 11 May 2008 22:12:26 GMTjnswilsonhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxI had a 63 pontiac a long time ago and I had problems with it starting. It was just like your 58. After about 2 days of hairpulling I found the distributor gear drive retaining pin broken. The distributor wasnt turning. New pin fixed it. Maybe.... Also make sure the distributor is grounded . Take distributor cap off and see if ground wire is installed and tightened. Make sure coil wires are connected properly and tight. Good Luck Sun, 11 May 2008 17:06:52 GMT55Birdmanhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxAlso, the "secondary" he is referring to is the plug/coil wires and distributor.Sun, 11 May 2008 12:30:24 GMTSam_Fearhttp://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic12143-3-1.aspxPiston Stop: Basically a bolt that screws into the plug hole of the #1 cylinder used to find TDC. Turn the motor as close to TDC as you can. Screw in the Piston Stop. Rotate the motor BY HAND until the piston hits the stop. Mark the damper. Turn the motor the opposite direction until it hits the stop. Mark the damper. Halfway in between the two marks is TDC. Since the dampers on Y-blocks can shift, this is really the only way to definitely find TDC. <br><br>Sun, 11 May 2008 12:22:10 GMTSam_Fear