﻿<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"><channel><title>Y-BlocksForever Forum / Y-BlocksForever! Forums 2006 / Street  / Steering and Brakes / Latest Posts</title><generator>InstantForum.NET v4.1.4</generator><description>Y-BlocksForever Forum</description><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/</link><webMaster>jculver@y-blocksforever.com</webMaster><lastBuildDate>Wed, 27 Aug 2008 21:30:44 GMT</lastBuildDate><ttl>20</ttl><item><title>RE: Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>I used a front disc brake set up on my 55 from Engineered Components inc.i know they have them for the 56 also because they sent me the 56 caliper brackets by mistake! 500$ sent to my door. I used a master from a 01 taurus and a porportioning valve from a 92 mustang. No need for a booster, the feeling and stopping is awesome.</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 21:36:19 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>steve borio</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>Tom - I think there are many later model Ford "big car" spindles that will fit on your '56 ball joints. Big pin - lower / small pin upper. There are several outfits around that sell bracket kits to fit disc brake calipers on those spindles - or you might just get lucky and find some real Ford Galaxie disks at an older yunk yard. I know of at least one '55 Bird that has a Country Squire transplant that fit fine. The big spindles won't change the ride height like the Granada or Versailles parts do.&lt;P&gt;The modifcation kits most often use '68 Mustang rotors and GM "metric" calipers to do this trick - and if you go that way be sure and get the type that have the calipers to the rear so they don't interfere with the sway bar mounting. There are several versions of the "metric " calipers around (mostly because they are popular on dirt track stock cars) including aluminum and oversize piston types. I've been told that using the oversize pistons with a Pinto/Mustang II master cylinder (15/16 bore) will give good hydraulic pressure without power. The Pinto master cylinder has its ports on the driver side of the bowl (to outboard). If you buy a kit (brackets only) and do some serious shopping - you can have some decent disc brakes for a fair price.   </description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:18:43 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>AZ28</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>Tom:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I may add a booster at a later date, but for now it stops real good with only moderate pedal pressure. I'm using a dual m/c that came from Drop N Stop and a combo valve from MP Power Brakes. The spindle swap only lowered the front end about 1-1/2 to 2", so I doubt your cut-out stubs would be in much peril.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;It may be possible to use the R&amp;amp;P with the stock clutch z-bar, but it would sure be extra busy on that side of the engine bay. A juice clutch/slave cylinder might be the answer (along with a floor shifter) for you manual guys.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Good luck.</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 12:56:27 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>55Brodie</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>Our host Jim was looking into a Mustang/Cougar box for his Ford. If I recall it only requires drilling one hole and setting up a u-joint to make it work. No smaller than the current box but a lot newer. The power assist steering box has a quicker ratio. They used the same type power steering as the 55/56. Search the site the info is here somplace. Chuck in NH&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Check this topic for more information on the conversion. &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;&lt;A href="http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic782-3-1.aspx?Highlight=steering"&gt;http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic782-3-1.aspx?Highlight=steering&lt;/A&gt;</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 11:11:00 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>MoonShadow</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>Thanks for the info, Brodie.  Wurth's site did not show anything for a 56 and I do  have standard clutch linkage soooo . . . .&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Tell me more about the brakes.  You said non power, any plans to add power booster?  Assume you still had to use a dual master and proportioning valve.  I do not want to lower the front end on my 56 due to the stubby lake dumps behind the front wheels.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;TC</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 10:39:45 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tom Compton</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>Downsides.............&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;The turning circle is somewhat more limited than stock in a left hand turn. This is probably due to a geometry error in Wurth's offset center bracket. I live with it because you can compensate once you know it.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Oil filter clearance is super tight...so much so that I am now an expert on shorty filters for Y blocks. You must convert to a spin-on. Also, I'm not certain if this rack will work at all with conventional stock clutch linkage.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Cost...I suspect I have $ 1000.00 or a little more tied up with the rack, column, pump, hoses and brackets. My labor is unfortunately free. This cost is probably in line with the Gearhead's Saginaw power box conversion and probably cheaper that sucuring and rebuilding a stock power set-up.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Hope this helps...send me a PM if you need additional info.</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 05:46:49 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>55Brodie</dc:creator></item><item><title>RE: Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>Tom:&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I'll chime in as I have a R&amp;amp;P setup on my 55. First off, I do not think a M II swap is necessary as the stock Ford front end is plenty up to the task. Swapping to the R&amp;amp;P was relatively easy and can be done in a weekend once all the parts are on hand. In my case, I used the "kit" from Rick Wurth (Wurth-it Designs) along with a Saginaw pump and Y-block bracket from ND Gearhead Cruiser Products. I also had previously swapped the brakes for discs from DC Drop N Stop (non-boosted). &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Also, my car is a Fordomatic and I used an Ididit shifter tilt column which was pretty straight forward in the install. I had some issues with the so-called Wurth kit. The clearance at the oil pump was insufficient and required a couple of "lowering blocks" to be added to the rack's frame brackets. Also, the spindle arms furnished were not the correct length and I had to buy some locally from a race shop. Finally, the u-joints for the steering shaft and the support bracket were all wrong. To Rick's credit, he corrected all these errors on the fly, but it was a time consuming process. He later admitted that mine was probably the first 55-56 using his kit that still had a Y block in it. He cut his teeth on this kit for 57 models with FE engines.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;I understand the Fat Man Fabrications kit is very similar, but they are quite adamant about welding in the brackets and I didn't want to do that in case I ever wanted to reverse the swap. I believe Jim Culver used the Fat Man kit on his car.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Would I do it again? Was it worth it (no pun intended)? Absolutely! I have arthritis in both shoulders and slow speed manuevering was a real chore. The R&amp;amp;P is effortless and still retains good road feel.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Downsides...next</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 05:35:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>55Brodie</dc:creator></item><item><title>Steering and Brakes</title><link>http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic11826-4-1.aspx</link><description>I have seen several threads here on each of the subject installs and know some of you (Jim Culver) have gone through some painful trial and error experiences.  Just wanting to get the latest recommendations on installing a pwr R&amp;amp;P steering and pwr disc brakes in my 56 Victoria.  &lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;As I want to do both and even at the same time, is it better to install a complete Mustang II front from one of the fab shops or can a reasonably good outcome be had doing them seperately?  Looks like the parts to do athem seperately will almost cost as much as a M II.&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;What are the draw backs of putting R&amp;amp;P on stock 56 front?&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;Thx&lt;/P&gt;&lt;P&gt;TC - Austin, TX</description><pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2008 04:42:02 GMT</pubDate><dc:creator>Tom Compton</dc:creator></item></channel></rss>