As I want to do both and even at the same time, is it better to install a complete Mustang II front from one of the fab shops or can a reasonably good outcome be had doing them seperately?  Looks like the parts to do athem seperately will almost cost as much as a M II.

What are the draw backs of putting R&P on stock 56 front?

Thx

TC - Austin, TX

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use them.

Rocklock - Austin, Texas

I'll chime in as I have a R&P setup on my 55. First off, I do not think a M II swap is necessary as the stock Ford front end is plenty up to the task. Swapping to the R&P was relatively easy and can be done in a weekend once all the parts are on hand. In my case, I used the "kit" from Rick Wurth (Wurth-it Designs) along with a Saginaw pump and Y-block bracket from ND Gearhead Cruiser Products. I also had previously swapped the brakes for discs from DC Drop N Stop (non-boosted).

Also, my car is a Fordomatic and I used an Ididit shifter tilt column which was pretty straight forward in the install. I had some issues with the so-called Wurth kit. The clearance at the oil pump was insufficient and required a couple of "lowering blocks" to be added to the rack's frame brackets. Also, the spindle arms furnished were not the correct length and I had to buy some locally from a race shop. Finally, the u-joints for the steering shaft and the support bracket were all wrong. To Rick's credit, he corrected all these errors on the fly, but it was a time consuming process. He later admitted that mine was probably the first 55-56 using his kit that still had a Y block in it. He cut his teeth on this kit for 57 models with FE engines.

I understand the Fat Man Fabrications kit is very similar, but they are quite adamant about welding in the brackets and I didn't want to do that in case I ever wanted to reverse the swap. I believe Jim Culver used the Fat Man kit on his car.

Would I do it again? Was it worth it (no pun intended)? Absolutely! I have arthritis in both shoulders and slow speed manuevering was a real chore. The R&P is effortless and still retains good road feel.

Downsides...next

Brodie

Savannah, GA

The turning circle is somewhat more limited than stock in a left hand turn. This is probably due to a geometry error in Wurth's offset center bracket. I live with it because you can compensate once you know it.

Oil filter clearance is super tight...so much so that I am now an expert on shorty filters for Y blocks. You must convert to a spin-on. Also, I'm not certain if this rack will work at all with conventional stock clutch linkage.

Cost...I suspect I have $ 1000.00 or a little more tied up with the rack, column, pump, hoses and brackets. My labor is unfortunately free. This cost is probably in line with the Gearhead's Saginaw power box conversion and probably cheaper that sucuring and rebuilding a stock power set-up.

Hope this helps...send me a PM if you need additional info.

Brodie

Savannah, GA

Tell me more about the brakes.  You said non power, any plans to add power booster?  Assume you still had to use a dual master and proportioning valve.  I do not want to lower the front end on my 56 due to the stubby lake dumps behind the front wheels.

TC

You gotta have the right tools and know how to use them.

Rocklock - Austin, Texas

Check this topic for more information on the conversion.

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Topic782-3-1.aspx?Highlight=steering

Y's guys rule!

                            
 MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch 28 Chrysler Roadster (mystery motor)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I may add a booster at a later date, but for now it stops real good with only moderate pedal pressure. I'm using a dual m/c that came from Drop N Stop and a combo valve from MP Power Brakes. The spindle swap only lowered the front end about 1-1/2 to 2", so I doubt your cut-out stubs would be in much peril.

It may be possible to use the R&P with the stock clutch z-bar, but it would sure be extra busy on that side of the engine bay. A juice clutch/slave cylinder might be the answer (along with a floor shifter) for you manual guys.

Good luck.

Brodie

Savannah, GA

The modifcation kits most often use '68 Mustang rotors and GM "metric" calipers to do this trick - and if you go that way be sure and get the type that have the calipers to the rear so they don't interfere with the sway bar mounting. There are several versions of the "metric " calipers around (mostly because they are popular on dirt track stock cars) including aluminum and oversize piston types. I've been told that using the oversize pistons with a Pinto/Mustang II master cylinder (15/16 bore) will give good hydraulic pressure without power. The Pinto master cylinder has its ports on the driver side of the bowl (to outboard). If you buy a kit (brackets only) and do some serious shopping - you can have some decent disc brakes for a fair price.   

                               Steve Metzger               Tucson, Arizona