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| For what it's worth, I watched your slide show and think it's a pretty cool project.
I don't think there is anyone who will ridicule you for working on a Y block around here, so don't be worried about that. Just follow all of the advice and you'll get to the bottom of it.
My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's. |
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| | | Supreme Being
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| | Luvsjohnnycash: I can guarantee that no one on this forum will ridicule you. Not one of us was born knowing about Y Blocks. We all learned from experience. That's what you're doing now. All that we ask is that you answer our questions truthfully, don't give us an answer you think we want to hear. What do you know about the engine when it came out of the truck? Was it running at the time? Has someone worked on it just before pulling it, or while it was out? What are the compression readings? They would help us know whether the cam timing is off. As Charlie said, compression, fuel, and spark (at the right time) and it should run. This is not mission impossible. We can make it go. A couple of things I have done in the past: I replaced plug wires, not checking to see if #1 wire was in the terminal marked #1 on the cap. Put the new wires in with #1 in the #1 hole, and it wouldn't run. Someone had moved the wires around in the cap because the distributor was a tooth off. Another thing I've done, and I hope none of my friends on this site laugh at me, is to put the wires in the cap in a clockwise rotation when they should have been counterclockwise. Give us as much background info as you can, we'll make it go. Good luck. John in Selma, IN
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| Hoosier Hurricane (4/27/2008)
Luvsjohnnycash:
I can guarantee that no one on this forum will ridicule you. Not one of us was born knowing about Y Blocks. We all learned from experience. That's what you're doing now. All that we ask is that you answer our questions truthfully, don't give us an answer you think we want to hear.
What do you know about the engine when it came out of the truck? Was it running at the time? Has someone worked on it just before pulling it, or while it was out?
What are the compression readings? They would help us know whether the cam timing is off. As Charlie said, compression, fuel, and spark (at the right time) and it should run. This is not mission impossible. We can make it go.
A couple of things I have done in the past: I replaced plug wires, not checking to see if #1 wire was in the terminal marked #1 on the cap. Put the new wires in with #1 in the #1 hole, and it wouldn't run. Someone had moved the wires around in the cap because the distributor was a tooth off. Another thing I've done, and I hope none of my friends on this site laugh at me, is to put the wires in the cap in a clockwise rotation when they should have been counterclockwise.
Give us as much background info as you can, we'll make it go. Good luck.
John in Selma, IN
thanks for liking my little collage of pics of my car to the other guy, and thanks for saying i wont get ridiculed on here, i appreciate it.
well, the motor is out of a 58 ford truck i believe he said. it only has 32,000 original miles on it. the guy had driven the truck the morning before we went down there to pick it up. so it was running the day we pulled it out.
compression... im not sure what the readings were, my dad did those, he should be going over there sometime this week while im at school to work on it.
ive printed off the firing order on websites and we have a manual for a 58 ford y block and we know we have the firing order correct, and the timing is correct on it also. the points are right and have the right gap in between them, and we took out each sparkplug and they are all giving off a blue spark. we can see fuel getting to the carb in the little see-through pump we got on there.
it just gives off these VERY loud backfires. it used to backfire out of the carb and a flame would come out. then we got the firing order right, now it backfires out of the exhaust manifolds.
IT LIVES!
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| | | Supreme Being
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| Is that vehicle 6V or 12V? The 6V have a positive ground and the wiring for the coil and distributor are bass-ackwards.
Edit: another thought; make sure you have grounds that run from the battery to the;frame, engine, and firewall. Three ground paths.
Best regards,
pcmenten
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| | | Supreme Being
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| | Hang in there we have all been where you are at one time or another. You say you have fuel to the carb so now look down the carb as you goose the gas linkage and check that fuel is squirting out. That shows you that the fuel in the carb can reach inside the manifold and into the motor. Whenever I pull an engine I REMOVE the distributor and if you did not watch when this motor was pulled it could have been taken out to prevent damage and then just stuck back in. When you do get the timing right and it fires up, then what? You do not have a waterpump or radiator so after about 30 seconds you are going to fry your engine. I know it must be frustrating for you but I think you should start over in this process. Things like check the engine for oil and oil pressure. Find top dead center on number one and confirm with the valve cover off and set the timing by ignition on, hand rotate dist until number one spark fires. Get a radiator and waterpump hooked up cause after it does fire-up you will need to adjust a lot of things. Slow down and good luck. Pete |
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| | If it is backfiring (actually after-firing, but we won't get hung up on wording) in the exhaust, then it obviously has fuel and ignition. It sounds like the ignition timing is wrong. It appears in the picture that the front pulley has the passenger style damper ring which is rubber mounted. Sometimes this ring slips, which throws the timing marks off. If you are basing your timing on those marks, it could be off. Take #1 plug out, and using a soda straw or small twig, turn the engine by hand until you can feel the piston come to the top of the cylinder. The timing marks on the pulley should be very near the pointer. If not, the ring has slipped and you should ignore them for now. Pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to either #1 or #6 wire. Check back with us and let us know what you find, and we'll go to the next step. Too much information at once will only get you confused as you learn troubleshooting. John in Selma, IN
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| | well we have the transmission cooler and radiator and all the hoses. i just need to get something for the driveshaft, install that, then i gotta somehow get a bracket in there for that damn alternator i have.. thats a whole new topic i think i should start right there, cuz there arent any brackets i can find anywhere for it. but should i install EVERYTHING first, before firing it up. we just wanna fire it up for like 10 seconds to know that its going to actually start.. im at work right now so sorry that my reply is so quick, when i get home i'll get into more detailed replies
IT LIVES!
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| | luvsjohnnycash dont despair all ideas given so far are good im betting the distributor is one tooth out i did it on my 272 i even marked the dissy on where the rotor was before i pulled it out when i put it back in i got it a tooth out it wouldnt start no matter how far i turned the distributor it took me an hour to find what i had done im a mechanic ive pulled & replaced hundreds of dissy's yet i buggered up my own. i have seen people who have removed a ford dissy to actually turn the shaft to line up the oil drive as it's been fitted not realising they've thrown it out by a tooth or two & yes i have seen qualified mechanics do this. john none of your friends will laugh you've probably just reminded everyone that we are all human
 moz. geelong victoria australia. |
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