'56 front-end upgrades?
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'56 front-end upgrades?Expand / Collapse
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Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 2:19 AM


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My '56 has a "wobbly" front-end, do you guys know of any good upgrades to the stock front-end and where to find the right stuff?

Is there any place you can find a retro-fit kit with modern parts like the ones Global West has for '55-'57 chevys  (a bit out of my pricerange though). I don't want to modify to much, but i really feel that something needs to be done if i'm gonna go ~400 hp (sorry, no Y-block I'm building a 351C)

Thanks in advance // J.R.

----------------------------------------------------
'56 2d Fairlane Victoria, 289 2V + C4, 9" rear

Post #12171
Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 6:07 AM
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The factory front end is pretty good when everything is tight.  Simply putting new A arm bushings and ball joints in place as well as taking out any slop in the steering linkages and box will make a big difference.  Carpenters as well as other firms can supply the needed parts.  I can still go down to the local parts store and get the parts individually so front end rebuild pieces are still out there for the Mid-Fifties Fords.  Maybe someone else can chime in with other vendors as complete front end kits will typically save you some dollars.

Lorena, Texas  (South of Waco)
Post #12178
Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 11:30 AM
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I've got a few ideas I've been working on - to get a better front end without butchering all of the factory mounting. Unfortunately - I have a day job and can't get all of the prototypes built and tested....

These aluminum adapter blocks allow fitting the Dodge/Plymouth screw-in ball joints that all of the dirt racers love to a stock '56 A-arm. If you use this sort of adapter it is also possible to utilize some of the "tall" ball joints that improve spindle height and correct the camber curve (raise the roll center). The screw in joints fit the pin size of the '55 and '56 sedans with Ford "big car" spindles. The ring is a weld-in available from Speedway.

 

The old front ends don't have any allowance for "anti-dive" geometry and a modified pivot shaft can put this feature into an older vehicle. The 3° dupicates what you get with a Mustang II geometry (factory alignment) and helps a bit with a car that's been retro fitted with disc brakes. This design still needs prototyped and checked for fitment. Such a pivot can also be moved back a bit to add Castor (straight ahead stability) to the existing set-up and help out with wandering power steering (and radial tire squirm).  

I haven't done any design work on the lower arm yet - but there are some screw-in joints that will work on there with the proper adapter design. Many guys already use the "lowering bars" to move the lower spring pan down and lower the car with stock springs. There are also several gas shock set-ups around and some pretty beefy sway bars. If the sway bar gets too big (1-1/8 dia may be max.)- the little brackets on the exisitng '55 / '56 lower arms will deflect and 'spring release" the bar a bit.

I haven't picked up a sample to reverse engineer - but I've heard that the Granada spindles that a lot of guys use to add disc brakes not only lower the car (by moving the spindle upward relative to the lower ball joint) - but also are shorter in overall height (?) which would do bad things to the roll center.

Don't give up too easy!

                               Steve Metzger               Tucson, Arizona

Post #12181
Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 11:41 AM
Supreme Being

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All looks great but expensive! As far as spindles try the Lincoln Versailles. They have the same size fitting as the stock 54/56 Ford and required no reaming to fit. The Mustang guys are cleaning out the Granada supply but the Versailles is being left for us (if you can find one). Chuck

Y's guys rule!

                            
 MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch 28 Chrysler Roadster (mystery motor)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Post #12183
Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 11:55 AM
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Chuck,

I thought the Versailles WERE Granada spindles? I have the granada spindles on mine and it was a $20.00 ream job at a local machine shop ( 7 deg. taper) and the rest was a bolt in. Even the outer tie rods bolted up without adjustment!

Rob

I love the smell of burning rubber in the morning!

Post #12184
Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 1:15 PM
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Chuckles -

Believe me, I'm trying to figure out an economical fix for this - those screw-in upper ball joints are $12.95 from Speedway and only a little more from Moog - compare that with the prices of the originals ($75-$50). The "weld-in" ring is only $7.00 from several dirt track parts houses and outfits like Global use them to build these replacement A-arm systems - then sell them for $400 and more. I like the aluminum adapter parts - because they can be made in a large run on a CNC machine tool and drive the price way down. But more work needs done....

The two 4140 bars for the pivot arms were about $80 for the steel - and I'm still looking for a local machinist to step up and turn them for me cheap. We did check into either bushing or welding and drilling an old pivot bar - but I'd just can't justify the safety aspects of that for anything other than an NDT tested "off-road only" race car kind of situation. 

Penske and Shelby both used to make their A-arm bushings for the Trans-Am cars out of solid aluminum bar. Those cars are both noisy and ride rough too - but they stick like glue. Now days the guys are running sealed ball bushings for the same purpose - it just takes some time and development to sort them out. I thought your urethane versions were a very good idea - and you know its hard to get such parts manufactured and offered for resale.

I may end up with the only '56 Autocross T-bird around ......and if I can develop some bolt-on stuff that lets us show up the old Corvettes, so much the better.....

                               Steve Metzger               Tucson, Arizona

Post #12185
Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 3:57 PM
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Nope, Versailles are bolt up with no reaming! Better than "Brokeback" Granada!

Y's guys rule!

                            
 MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch 28 Chrysler Roadster (mystery motor)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Post #12188
Posted Monday, April 28, 2008 8:20 PM
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Johnny,

           After you blow up the Cleveland come back and talk to us! The red car in the picture with this letter is stock, makes around 340 hp to the rear wheels ! and has gone almost 106 mph in the quarter mile. It's a Stock 1957, 51 year old  Y block.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Post #12201