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Supreme Being
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| Holes have to be marked on the shifter boot for the bezel screws. The only way I could find to hold it in place in order to mark the holes is to use some masking tape. It worked like a charm. I marked the centers with a scribe. The screws do the rest. Once the boot is installed, the excess that you see on the sides is trimmed with a razor.  
I then made a rubber gasket for the adapter plate. For this I just placed the bezel on a sheet of rubber and carefully cut out the shape with a razor. I marked the centers with the scribe and cut out the holes with a hollow punch. A leather punch will probably be easier but I don't have one. Hopefully this will be enough to seal the plate to the floor. I used 1/32" thick High-Strength Multipurpose Neoprene Rubber. It is oil resistant, abrasion resistant, impact resistant, weather resistant, and flame resistant. All sound great for use in a car!
And here it is all together!  
I forgot to take a picture of the finished adapter plate. I'm sure you can guess by now that I painted it black. Note the completed floor pan! The old speedo cable and drive gear seem to bolt right in and seems to be real close to it's original location. I'll see how that works once I am able to drive it. Now I just have to figure out what's going on with the clutch. I'm sure I'll have more to post about that. But this should pretty well cover the installation of a T5 in a 61 F100 and is probably mostly the same for the other years.
Norcross, GA
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Supreme Being
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Charlie Great thread!! Very detailed and I'm sure many will find it helpful in the future. I know I will when I start my install this winter. Thanks again
Warsaw, IN
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Supreme Being
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| I pulled the transmission today. As I suspected, the throwout bearing reducer sleeve is the problem. It hits the fingers of the pressure plate after some point of the travel. Fortunately no damage has been done. You can see where the conatact has been made on the upper 3/4 of the flange. 
I'm not sure if this would have been an issue with an original style plate. I'm calling original the ones which have a screw in each of the 3 fingers which is adjusted and welded. The plate I'm using has no screws. I'm not sure, but I also suspect that the wear pattern of the 3 fingers will be closer to center on the bearing surface with an original pressure plate. I have both plate styles and I'll try to remember to take a picture. I also have my old bearing somewhere. That will help confirm my theory. I'm going to try to have my friend remove the flange on his lathe and tig weld the sleeve into the bearing hub tomorrow. I've also cad modelled the hub for the stock 1 3/8 input transmission with stock bearing, and T5 using the stock bearing. I will also design one for the T5 and and Mustang bearing ,which will work with the truck clutch fork, when I get a hold of a Mustang bearing. This way sleeves won't have to be dealt with and Mustang clutches will be easy to use.
Norcross, GA
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Supreme Being
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| Great thread. Thanks for taking pics and posting as you go. You make it look easy. That would be a good swap for a lot of us that drive these old trucks. Will that shifter clear the bench seat? That is one of the problems I have heard rumors about with the t5 swap. A couple of extra gears would help highway driving. I am wound out pretty good at 65 in mine.
1956 Ford F-100, 272 Y-block V8, 3 speed transmission (column shift), and 3.73 rear gears (spicer 44) ---Mountain Home, AR
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Supreme Being
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You will need a shift handle bent in such a way that it misses the seat. I have a feeling it is something that will have to be made but shouldn't be too difficult. A straight shift handle will not allow 2nd, 4th, and reverse with the bench seat.
Norcross, GA
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Co-Administrator
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Charley. Did you see the shifter handle on the five speed in Bill Patridge’s ’60 truck? Was homemade and definitely kept to the external appearance theme of the truck.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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Supreme Being
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I did not see that. I didn't know it had a 5 speed. Too busy looking at the turbo! Did anyone take a picture?
Norcross, GA
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Forum Guru
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Another way around the shifter issue is to change the tailshaft housing to one from a S-10. It's stock shifter isn't a bad in one of our trucks either. I will use an after market short throw with the S-10 tailshaft housing and modify my stock shifter handle to bolt to the shifter.
62 LWB Uni, in progess as a dailydriver/mild custom, 292 4 bbl - getting a T-5 conversion and much more.
2009 Harley FXSTB Night Train
2006 Ford Fusion SEL
"My name is Greg and I am a Fordaholic"
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Supreme Being
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I made my own shifter out of stainless, bent it and polished it. It was a pain, but well worth it. I've got pictures of the finished product/T5 junk, but I don't even want to try to upload them here. If you want them, email me at drummerboy57@hotmail.com, and I will send them. Charlie, sent you back an email. Sorry for the delay.
Greg
My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.
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Supreme Being
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pic request sent...if you have time. 
1956 Ford F-100, 272 Y-block V8, 3 speed transmission (column shift), and 3.73 rear gears (spicer 44) ---Mountain Home, AR
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