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| | | Supreme Being
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| | Ted: The first blocks I did, I bored right through the seal area with the cap in place. That left a shallower groove, and I had trouble making rope seals work. The latest one is in the race car now, I did not bore the seal area in the block. I turned the crank seal area down to 292 size and a stock 292 neoprene seal was installed. Two seasons on the engine, no leak yet. Maybe if I had turned the cranks down in the first ones the seal would have had a better chance. Modern rope seals are junk anyway. John
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| | | Supreme Being
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| Ted, you had mentioned in an earlier post about possibly sleeving a 312 block, don't know what sleeves cost, but this seems like a solution to me. I have a 292 block that was a Fred Jones rebuild that has 8 sleeves and is std bore. This engine came from a 63 F600 farm truck and ran for years with no problems.
Glen Henderson
Freedom is not Free
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| Hoosier Hurricane (4/1/2007)
Ted: The first blocks I did, I bored right through the seal area with the cap in place. That left a shallower groove, and I had trouble making rope seals work. The latest one is in the race car now, I did not bore the seal area in the block. I turned the crank seal area down to 292 size and a stock 292 neoprene seal was installed. Two seasons on the engine, no leak yet. Maybe if I had turned the cranks down in the first ones the seal would have had a better chance. Modern rope seals are junk anyway.John, Thanks for the info. That’s what I needed to know. Glen Henderson (4/1/2007)
Ted, you had mentioned in an earlier post about possibly sleeving a 312 block, don't know what sleeves cost, but this seems like a solution to me. I have a 292 block that was a Fred Jones rebuild that has 8 sleeves and is std bore. This engine came from a 63 F600 farm truck and ran for years with no problems.Glen, I’m leaving the option of sleeving all eight cylinders as a last resort. Likewise, I've got a 428 block with eight sleeves that was a race engine and didn't give any trouble but I've also seen some issues with other blocks that were completely sleeved. For now, boring the mains in a 292 block to the 312 size is a suitable option. And that gives me some ideas down the road as the main bore centerline can be intentionally lowered to increase the deck height which in turn gives more connecting rod to camshaft clearance for a stroker.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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| | | Supreme Being
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| | Ted, It's a C2AE block with ECZ caps. I can only check at the top with calipers, I don't have mikes at the house. It is standard as best as I can tell. Was a Crusader, reverse rotation, still has the marine valley cover and aluminum cam gear in place. There are no visible scratches or missing chunks. Everything I checked is right at 3.800, and there's very little ridge. I think it's a candidate.
Frank/RebopBristol, In ( by Elkhart) 
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| | | Supreme Being
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| | Ted: I had thought about lowering the crank a few thousandths to take slack out of the timing chain, but never thought about lowering it for rod/cam clearance. You'd have to relocate the bellhousing to the crank centerline, and deal with the front cover seal, but both are doable. The one thing I failed to point out in my line bored blocks is the bearing lock tabs. The original notches are almost gone, and in the wrong place for 312 bearings. I take the 312 shells (or the Chrysler shells if that's what I'm using), lay them in the saddles with the tabs on the opposite side as the 292 notches, and scribe where the new notches need to be to properly locate the shell fore/aft. Then I grind new notches with a cutoff wheel in a die grinder. Make sure the notches are deep enough so the tabs don't bottom out and cause a high spot on the bearing. John
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| | | Supreme Being
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| Ted, looked at the block some more, I think it's got the heavier webs, but I'm not certain where to look for difference. I will probably never use it, my motor is based on a 292. Mummert cut the 312 crank down to 292 sizes, If I break it I'll most likely do the same thing over. I actually thought it was a 292 when I bought it. Didn't relize it wasn't until I was moving it around one day and spotted the main caps.
Frank/RebopBristol, In ( by Elkhart)
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| Frank, I've sent you an email (and PM). Your block does sound like a suitable candidate.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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| | | Supreme Being
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| | Ted, I was just looking at one of Lons post that mentions Wilcap adapters, it looks like they may be able to provide a steel flywheel for a Y but it says a ring gear may need to be supplied. Check out www.wilcap.com and look at the flywheel listings.
 55 Vicky & customline 58 Rack Dump 55 F350 yard truck 57 F100 59 & 61 P 400's |
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