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Supreme Being
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I'm getting ready to remove the front suspension on my 55 Fairlane and noticed the following statement in my shop manual. "The working parts of the ball joint type independent front suspension are assembled directly on the vehicle and cannot be removed as an assembly.However, individual suspension parts may be replaced." Is this just their way of saying you have to take everything apart before you can remove the front suspension? If so where would you start. If I compress the coil spring can I remove the spindle complete with the ball joints installed by removing the bolts that secure the ball joints to the control arms? I plan to install new spindles and disc brakes along with new ball joints bushings etc.
Thanks.
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
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Supreme Being
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Mark, Are you planning on replacing the A arm bushings at the same time? You don't mention them. Might be a good time to replace them while you have it apart if they have a lot of miles on them...
Just my 1¢.
 "The Master Cylinder"
Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL
Is there REALLY life East of PCH?? 
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Supreme Being
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Master Cylinder, Yes I am. I've got the A arm bushings ready to go, plus tie rod ends etc. Yesterday I pulled the "steering arm to idler arm rod" "center link". I'll probably replace the idler arm, bracket and bushings put a ball stud kit at the other end. I would like to replace the center link itself as its a bit beat up. The threads where the idler arm bushing attaches seem worn. I checked out a replacement at Mac,s, yikes -$235. There is a $75 core (if its acceptable) charge that would suggest someone rebuilds them. I wonder who? Know of a more reasonable source or even a good used one? A new one for a '55 Merc is $160 and a '51 Ford is $69 - must be a conspiracy.
Thanks
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
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Supreme Being
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lyonroad (2/5/2012)
I'm getting ready to remove the front suspension on my 55 Fairlane and noticed the following statement in my shop manual. "The working parts of the ball joint type independent front suspension are assembled directly on the vehicle and cannot be removed as an assembly.However, individual suspension parts may be replaced." Is this just their way of saying you have to take everything apart before you can remove the front suspension? If so where would you start. If I compress the coil spring can I remove the spindle complete with the ball joints installed by removing the bolts that secure the ball joints to the control arms? I plan to install new spindles and disc brakes along with new ball joints bushings etc.
Thanks.
If you compress the spring then you should be able to take off the spindle with ball joints attached. I'm not sure that every bolt that holds the ball joints to the A Arms can be accessed with the spring still in but compressed.
Are you planning to use the stock ball joints in your spindle swap? If so, the stock ball joint are extremely rugged (used them in Checker cabs for years) and yours are probably ok. They are one of the most expensive parts to the front end. If your going to use new, send me your old ones.
54 Victoria 312; 27T 255 Flathead, 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ
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Supreme Being
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Thanks Paul, if they are good I will use them. Did you say "send them to me" or "sell them to me"?
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
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Supreme Being
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Mark: My front end mechanic says those springs can be a bear to reinstall..use caution!
Paul
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Supreme Being
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| First of all BE CAREFUL with front springs, when they are compressed they represent a lot of energy that can get loose if something goes wrong. With that warning I have improvised a spring compressor using a piece of 1/4" plate cut to D shape about 7" dia to match the spring. A 1/2" sq is welded to the top of D and 5/8" + hole is drilled the center of the circle. This D is put between coils of the spring as low as possible. The square stock means the D plate stays appprox level in tthe spring. A piece of 5/8 all thread is placed through the D and up through the shock tower and double nutted at the bottom. A Greased washer stack and then a 5/8 nut completes the puller. You need at least 6" above the top nut if you are going to remove the spring from the car. The car should be supported on the front suspension with the wheels off. Tighten the top nut snug and then transfer the car's weight to a stand under the frame. The suspension is now free and should drop down away from the spring for removal. With the suspension off, the top nut can be slacked off to decompress the spring until it too drops away. REverse for reinstallation.
Doug TThe Highlands, Louisville, Ky. 
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Supreme Being
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Doug T, Paul. Thanks, I know I have to be carefull, I have removed a few coils before, but it still wakes me up at night when I think about it.
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
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Supreme Being
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I found a listing for a center link that the seller claims is for a '53-54 Ford. His number (on a tag) is B3AZ-3305. The cast number on mine is AD-3305-B. I can't find a listing for his part number. Anybody know what a B3AZ-3305 fits. I've been told that the cast number and the part number are sometimes different and I realize that there is a manual and a power steering version. The dimensions he gives are the same as mine and the picture looks similar(from what I can see). Incidentally I reinstalled the old idler arm bushing and torqued it to 85 lbs as per the shop manual and it held so maybe the old one is ok? Thanks
Mark
1956 Mercury M100
1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
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Supreme Being
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lyonroad (2/6/2012)
I found a listing for a center link that the seller claims is for a '53-54 Ford. His number (on a tag) is B3AZ-3305. The cast number on mine is AD-3305-B. I can't find a listing for his part number. Anybody know what a B3AZ-3305 fits. I've been told that the cast number and the part number are sometimes different and I realize that there is a manual and a power steering version. The dimensions he gives are the same as mine and the picture looks similar(from what I can see). Incidentally I reinstalled the old idler arm bushing and torqued it to 85 lbs as per the shop manual and it held so maybe the old one is ok? Thanks
A B3 is a 53 unit (B=1950's, 3 is 53) Ford changed its suspension in 54, not sure what crossed over from 53 to 54.
54 Victoria 312; 27T 255 Flathead, 48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ
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